[Studio Ghibli] From Up on Poppy Hill – Yamashita Park (Kanagawa Prefecture)

“Kokuriko Slope” and the Deep Connection with Yamashita Park

“Kokuriko Slope,” a Studio Ghibli film released in 2011, is a coming-of-age story set in Yokohama in 1963 (Showa 38). In this work directed by Goro Miyazaki, Yamashita Park appears as the stage for an important scene where the relationship between the protagonist Umi Matsuzaki and Shun Kazama deepens.

In the film, the scene where the two walk from Sakuragicho Station to Yamashita Park after finishing their meeting with the director is a memorable scene that remains in the hearts of many fans. In this scene, actual Yokohama landmarks such as the Hikawa Maru, symbol of Yokohama Harbor, the classic Hotel New Grand, and the Yokohama Marine Tower appear one after another on screen, creating a sense of realism as if walking through the actual streets of Yokohama.

Yamashita Park opened on March 15, 1930 (Showa 5), as Japan’s first waterfront park, created by reclaiming rubble from the Great Kanto Earthquake. Both at the time the film was set in 1963 and today, it continues to be loved by many people as a representative tourist spot of Yokohama.

Detailed Explanation of Yamashita Park Scenes in the Film

The Path from Sakuragicho Station to Yamashita Park Walked by Umi and Shun

In the film, on their way back from appealing directly to the director about the demolition of Caltier Latin, Umi and Shun are shown getting off the Keihin-Tohoku Line at Sakuragicho Station and heading toward Yamashita Park. In 1963, Sakuragicho Station was the terminal station of the Keihin-Tohoku Line.

The two enter Yamashita Park from the direction of the Red Brick Warehouse and head south toward the Hikawa Maru. This walking route can still be traced today and has become a popular course for fans enjoying sacred site pilgrimage.

Queen’s Tower (Yokohama Customs House) Makes an Appearance

In the background of Umi and Shun walking through Yamashita Park is “Queen’s Tower,” one of the Yokohama Three Towers, the Yokohama Customs House. Built in 1934 (Showa 9), this building is characterized by its distinctive verdigris-colored dome in Islamic temple style and is one of the symbols of Yokohama Harbor.

In the film, it is depicted exactly as it appeared at that time, and since it currently maintains almost the same exterior, it has become a precious spot where visitors can experience the world of the work.

Hikawa Maru – A Luxury Liner Symbolizing Yokohama Harbor

The most impressive aspect of the Yamashita Park scene is the image of the moored Hikawa Maru. This luxury liner, which operated on the North American route from 1930 (Showa 5) to 1960 (Showa 35), had already retired by 1963, the setting of the film, and was moored in Yamashita Park.

The Hikawa Maru is a large passenger ship measuring 163.3 meters in length and 11,622 tons in gross tonnage, boasting cutting-edge equipment for its time. It has a history of carrying many famous people including Chaplin, and was designated as a National Important Cultural Property in 2016.

In the film, the stern of the Hikawa Maru is beautifully depicted in the scene where Umi and Shun walk through Yamashita Park. Additionally, the “Koyomaru,” an ocean-going liner that appears in the final scene of the work, is speculated to have been modeled after this Hikawa Maru.

Currently, the Hikawa Maru is open to the public as a museum ship, and visitors can tour the interior. You can view the first-class cabins, dining room, wheelhouse, and other spaces, experiencing the atmosphere of a luxury liner from the early Showa period. From the deck, you can overlook Yamashita Park and the Minato Mirai district, with a spectacular view that brings to mind the scenes from the film.

Hotel New Grand – The Elegance of a Classic Hotel

In the scene where Umi and Shun walk against the backdrop of Yamashita Park, the Hotel New Grand building also appears. This hotel, which opened in 1927 (Showa 2), is one of Yokohama’s representative classic hotels.

In the film, the letters “HOTEL NEW GRAND” are depicted large in an angle from the side, and the hotel’s appearance at that time is faithfully recreated. In fact, this hotel has not undergone major exterior renovations, so it still maintains the same appearance as in the film today.

Hotel New Grand is also known as the birthplace of Western cuisine in Japan, famous for Napolitan spaghetti and poire à la mode. At the time of the film’s setting in 1963, it was a symbol of Yokohama’s sophisticated Western culture.

Yokohama Marine Tower – A Harbor Symbol Shining Brilliantly

In the path where Umi and Shun walk through Yamashita Park, the brilliantly lit Yokohama Marine Tower is depicted. Opening in 1961 (Showa 36), the Marine Tower was a relatively new landmark at the time the film was set in 1963.

This 106-meter-high tower (including lightning rod) functioned as the world’s highest lighthouse when it first opened. In the film, it is depicted as nighttime and the illuminated figure appears impressively.

Yokohama Marine Tower underwent renovation and reopened in 2022, and continues to be popular as a viewing facility overlooking Yokohama Harbor. From the observation floor, you can view from above Yamashita Park and the Hikawa Maru that appeared in the film.

The History of Yamashita Park and Its Appearance in 1963

A Symbol of Recovery from the Great Kanto Earthquake

Yamashita Park opened on March 15, 1930 (Showa 5). It was created by reclaiming rubble from the 1923 (Taisho 12) Great Kanto Earthquake and was Japan’s first waterfront park.

The park covers approximately 7.4 hectares and has a coastline of approximately 700 meters facing Yokohama Harbor. Since its opening, it has been cherished as a place of relaxation for residents and by 1963, when the film was set, it had more than 30 years of history and had become a representative park of Yokohama.

Yamashita Park in Showa 38 (1963)

The year 1963, the setting of the film, was the year before the Tokyo Olympics and a time when Japan was in the midst of rapid economic growth. Yokohama Harbor thrived as an international trading port, and the area around Yamashita Park was emblematic of Yokohama’s modern and sophisticated culture.

By 1963, Yamashita Park already had monuments such as the “Indian Water Tower” and the “statue of the girl in red shoes,” which can still be seen in the same places today. Additionally, the Hikawa Maru had been on display since 1961, creating a landscape exactly as depicted in the film.

The trees in the park had also grown by this time, and walking paths lined with greenery as depicted in the film had been developed. The promenade where Umi and Shun walked still remains today in much the same form as it was then.

Experiencing the World of “Kokuriko Slope” at Yamashita Park Today

How to Do a Sacred Site Pilgrimage – Recommended Route

If you want to recreate the scenes from the film, it’s recommended to start at Sakuragicho Station. The scene at the station appears in the film, and you can feel the atmosphere of that era.

Recommended Route:

1. Sakuragicho Station (Keihin-Tohoku Line/Negishi Line)
2. Walk toward the Red Brick Warehouse (approximately 15 minutes)
3. Enter Yamashita Park from the north end
4. Head south toward the Hikawa Maru
5. Pass in front of Hotel New Grand
6. Head toward Yokohama Marine Tower

By following this route, you can experience the path walked by Umi and Shun almost faithfully. The journey takes approximately one to one and a half hours including time for photographs.

Photography Spots and Best Angles

Stern of the Hikawa Maru:
The angle looking up at the Hikawa Maru from the center of Yamashita Park is the composition closest to the film’s scene. Photography during twilight is especially recommended, as the ship’s silhouette emerges beautifully.

Hotel New Grand Sign:
The letters “HOTEL NEW GRAND” as seen from the Yamashita Park side appear as an important cut in the film. Photographing from the park’s promenade allows you to capture the same composition as the film.

Yokohama Marine Tower:
The view of the Marine Tower from near the south end of Yamashita Park evokes memories of the film’s final scene. The illuminated figure at night is particularly impressive.

Points of Interest Within Yamashita Park

Indian Water Tower:
A monument donated by the Indian Association in Japan in 1939 (Showa 14), it already existed at the time depicted in the film.

Statue of the Girl in Red Shoes:
A statue based on the girl who inspired the children’s song “Red Shoes,” it was installed in 1979, so it did not exist in the film’s era, but is one of the symbols of Yamashita Park.

Hikawa Maru Ship Interior Tour:
Available for a fee (general admission 300 yen), you can tour the ship’s interior. The first-class cabins, dining room, wheelhouse, and other spaces are preserved as they were, allowing you to experience the atmosphere of a luxury liner from the early Showa period. Operating hours are 10:00-17:00 (admission until 16:30), closed Mondays (or the following weekday if Monday is a holiday).

“Kokuriko Slope” Related Spots Near Yamashita Park

Osanbashi (Yokohama Port Osanbashi International Passenger Terminal)

Although it does not appear directly in the film, Osanbashi, approximately a 5-minute walk from Yamashita Park, functioned as a departure and arrival point for international passenger ships in 1963. The current building was renovated in 2002, but the “Whale’s Back” rooftop deck offers a panoramic view of Yamashita Park and the Hikawa Maru.

Yokohama Chinatown

Yokohama Chinatown, a 5-minute walk from Yamashita Park, is a historic area that has existed since the era depicted in the film. It was already known as Japan’s largest Chinatown by 1963. It is also recommended as a dining spot after your sacred site pilgrimage.

Minatono Mieru Oka Park

Minatono Mieru Oka Park, one of the important settings in “Kokuriko Slope,” is approximately a 15-minute walk from Yamashita Park. The location that served as the model for the Cokkoriko-sou, the slopes that Umi used as her school route, and other important scenes from the film are concentrated here.

Visiting together with Yamashita Park allows for a more fulfilling sacred site pilgrimage.

The Appeal of 1963 Yokohama as Depicted in “Kokuriko Slope”

The Appearance of a Port Town During Rapid Economic Growth

The year 1963, when the film is set, was a time when Japan was in the midst of rapid economic growth, and with the Tokyo Olympics the following year, Yokohama Harbor thrived as an international trading port and served as a gateway for the influx of foreign culture.

The area around Yamashita Park was emblematic of Yokohama’s modern and sophisticated culture. The coexistence of a Western-style hotel like Hotel New Grand, a luxury liner like the Hikawa Maru, and a new landmark like Yokohama Marine Tower speaks to the vitality of Yokohama at that time.

The Value of Unchanging Landscapes

One of the major appeals of “Kokuriko Slope” is that many of the landscapes depicted in the film still remain today. Particularly in the Yamashita Park scenes, you can see much the same landscape – the Hikawa Maru, Hotel New Grand, and the park’s promenades – more than 60 years later.

This is the result of Yokohama’s careful preservation of historic buildings and scenery, and for film fans, it provides a precious opportunity to step into the world of the work.

A Nostalgic Showa Atmosphere

The film beautifully fuses the brightness of the early 1960s high-growth period with the nostalgia of old, cherished Showa. Even in the Yamashita Park scenes, modern architecture harmonizes with the verdant park and the serene landscape of Yokohama Harbor, expressing the spirit of an era that is nostalgic yet filled with hope.

The scene where Umi and Shun walk through Yamashita Park is not only an important moment in deepening their relationship but also a memorable scene that impressively depicts the beauty of Yokohama at that time.

Practical Information to Know Before Your Visit

How to Get There

By Train:

• 3 minutes on foot from Exit 4, Motomachi-Chukagai Station (Minato Mirai Line)
• 15 minutes on foot from Ishikawacho Station, Chinatown exit (Negishi Line)
• 15 minutes on foot from Sakuragicho Station (Negishi Line/Municipal Subway)

If you want to recreate the scenes from the film, approaching from Sakuragicho Station is recommended.

By Bus:
Get off at “Chinatown Entrance” on Yokohama City Bus

Basic Information

Address: 279 Yamashita-cho, Naka Ward, Yokohama, Kanagawa Prefecture

Opening Hours: Open 24 hours (Hikawa Maru is 10:00-17:00)

Admission: Free (Hikawa Maru ship tour is fee-based: general 300 yen, seniors 65+ 200 yen, junior/elementary students 100 yen)

Parking: Yamashita Park Parking Lot available (fee-based)

Best Seasons to Visit

Spring (late March – May):
Roses and seasonal flowers bloom magnificently, making it the most beautiful season in the park. May, when the roses are in full bloom, is particularly crowded with tourists.

Autumn (October – November):
The climate is mild and perfect for walking. Autumn roses are also enjoyable.

Twilight Hours:
For recreating the film’s scenes, the hours from dusk through night are recommended. The illuminated Marine Tower and the silhouette of the Hikawa Maru are beautifully displayed.

Dining and Rest Spots in the Vicinity

Hotel New Grand:
A classic hotel that also appears in the film, where you can use the café and restaurants. “The Café,” famous as the birthplace of Napolitan, allows you to savor the traditional Napolitan.

Yamashita Park Rest House:
A rest facility within the park where you can purchase light snacks and beverages.

Yokohama Chinatown:
Japan’s largest Chinatown with diverse dining establishments is within a 5-minute radius.

A Message to “Kokuriko Slope” Fans

Yamashita Park is one of the spots that most vividly retains the world of “Kokuriko Slope.” The promenade where Umi and Shun walked, the Hikawa Maru and Hotel New Grand that appeared in the background of the two, and the brilliantly lit Marine Tower – all of these still exist in the same place, offering an experience as if stepping into the world of the film.

More than 60 years have passed since 1963, yet the landscape of Yamashita Park remains surprisingly unchanged from the film. This is also evidence that Yokohama, as a city, has developed while valuing history and tradition.

When visiting Yamashita Park on a sacred site pilgrimage, please take your time to walk through it while recalling the scenes from the film. You should be able to experience in the same location the Yokohama breeze, harbor scent, and Showa atmosphere that Umi and Shun must have felt.

I also highly recommend touring the interior of the Hikawa Maru. Viewing the interior of this luxury liner, which may have been the model for the “Koyomaru” that appears in the film’s final scene, will deepen your understanding of the work.

Yamashita Park is not merely a filming location for a movie, but a precious place where you can experience Yokohama’s history and culture. Through the wonderful work that is “Kokuriko Slope,” why not rediscover the charm of this beautiful park?