The Deep Connection Between “From Up on Poppy Hill” and Yamashita Park
“From Up on Poppy Hill,” a Studio Ghibli work released in 2011, is a coming-of-age story set in Yokohama in 1963 (Showa 38). In this film directed by Goro Miyazaki, Yamashita Park serves as the setting for an important scene where the relationship between the protagonist Umi Matsuzaki and Shun Kazama deepens.
In the film, the scene where the two characters walk from Sakuragicho Station to Yamashita Park after their meeting with the school director has become a memorable scene for many fans. In this scene, actual Yokohama landmarks such as the Hikawa Maru (a symbol of Yokohama Harbor), the Hotel New Grand (a classic hotel), and the Yokohama Marine Tower appear one after another on screen, creating a sense of realism as if actually walking through Yokohama.
Yamashita Park opened in 1930 (Showa 5) as Japan’s first waterfront park, created by filling in rubble from the Great Kanto Earthquake. Both in 1963 when the film is set and at present, it continues to be loved by many people as a representative tourist destination of Yokohama.
Detailed Explanation of Yamashita Park Scenes in the Film
The Route from Sakuragicho Station to Yamashita Park Where Umi and Shun Walked
In the film, on the way back after Umi and Shun made a direct appeal to the school director regarding the demolition of Caltieri Latin, they are shown getting off the Keihin-Tohoku Line at Sakuragicho Station and heading toward Yamashita Park. In 1963, Sakuragicho Station was the terminal station of the Keihin-Tohoku Line.
The two enter Yamashita Park from the direction of the Red Brick Warehouse and head south toward the Hikawa Maru. This walking route can still be traced today and has become a popular course for fans enjoying pilgrimage to sacred sites.
The Queen’s Tower (Yokohama Customs House)
In the background of Umi and Shun walking through Yamashita Park, the “Queen’s Tower,” which is the Yokohama Customs House, one of the three Yokohama towers, is depicted. Built in 1934 (Showa 9), this building is characterized by its distinctive Islamic mosque-style green patina dome and is one of the symbols of Yokohama Harbor.
In the film, it is depicted exactly as it appeared at the time, and since it maintains almost the same appearance today, it has become a valuable spot where one can experience the world of the work.
Hikawa Maru – A Luxury Liner Symbolizing Yokohama Harbor
The most impressive element in the Yamashita Park scene is the moored Hikawa Maru. This luxury liner, which operated on the North American route from 1930 (Showa 5) to 1960 (Showa 35), had already retired from active service by 1963, the year the film is set, and was moored at Yamashita Park.
The Hikawa Maru is a large passenger ship measuring 163.3 meters in length with a gross tonnage of 11,622 tons, boasting the most advanced facilities of the time. It has a history of carrying many famous figures including Charlie Chaplin and was designated as a National Important Cultural Property in 2016.
In the film, the stern of the Hikawa Maru is beautifully depicted in the scene where Umi and Shun walk through Yamashita Park. Additionally, the “Koyo Maru,” an ocean-going liner that appears in the final scene of the work, is believed to have been modeled after the Hikawa Maru.
Currently, the Hikawa Maru is open to the public as a museum ship. Visitors can explore the first-class cabins, dining room, pilot house, and other areas, experiencing the atmosphere of a luxury liner from the early Showa period. From the deck, one can see a panoramic view of Yamashita Park and the Minato Mirai district, with magnificent scenery that evokes the scenes from the film.
Hotel New Grand – The Elegance of a Classic Hotel
In the scene of Umi and Shun walking with Yamashita Park in the background, the Hotel New Grand building also appears. This hotel, which opened in 1927 (Showa 2), is one of Yokohama’s representative classic hotels.
In the film, the letters “HOTEL NEW GRAND” are depicted prominently from a side angle, with the appearance of the time faithfully recreated. Indeed, since this hotel has not undergone major external renovations, it maintains the same appearance as depicted in the film today.
Hotel New Grand is also known as the birthplace of Western cuisine culture in Japan, famous for Napolitan spaghetti and pêche à la mode. In 1963, the setting of the film, it symbolized Yokohama’s sophisticated, Western culture.
Yokohama Marine Tower – A Harbor Symbol Shining Brilliantly
As Umi and Shun walk through Yamashita Park, the brightly shining Yokohama Marine Tower is depicted ahead. The Marine Tower, which opened in 1961 (Showa 36), was a relatively new landmark at the time the film is set in 1963.
This 106-meter-tall tower (including the lightning rod) functioned as the world’s tallest lighthouse when it first opened. In the film, it is depicted as a nighttime view, with its illuminated appearance making a striking appearance.
Yokohama Marine Tower reopened with renovations in 2022 and continues to be popular as a viewing facility overlooking Yokohama Harbor. From the observation floor, one can see Yamashita Park and the Hikawa Maru, which appeared in the film, from above.
History of Yamashita Park and Its Appearance in 1963
A Symbol of Recovery from the Great Kanto Earthquake
Yamashita Park opened on March 15, 1930 (Showa 5). It is Japan’s first waterfront park, created by filling in rubble from the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923 (Taisho 12).
The park covers approximately 7.4 hectares and has a coastline of approximately 700 meters facing Yokohama Harbor. Beloved as a place for citizens to relax since its opening, by 1963, the setting of the film, it had a history of over 30 years and had become a park representative of Yokohama.
Yamashita Park in 1963 (Showa 38)
1963, the setting of the film, was the year before the Tokyo Olympics and a time when Japan was in the midst of rapid economic growth. Yokohama Harbor flourished as an international trade port and served as a gateway for the inflow of foreign culture.
The area around Yamashita Park was a symbol of Yokohama’s modern, sophisticated culture. The landscape—where Western-style hotels like Hotel New Grand, luxury liners like the Hikawa Maru, and new landmarks like Yokohama Marine Tower coexisted—spoke to the vitality of Yokohama at the time.
Various monuments such as the “Indian Water Tower” and the “Statue of the Little Girl in Red Shoes” had already been installed in Yamashita Park by then and can still be seen in the same locations today. Additionally, the Hikawa Maru had been on display since 1961, and the landscape depicted in the film was exactly as it is shown.
The trees in the park had already grown, and a green, lush walking path such as depicted in the film had been developed. The promenade where Umi and Shun walked remains today, largely unchanged from that time.
Experiencing the World of “From Up on Poppy Hill” in Today’s Yamashita Park
How to Walk the Sacred Sites – Recommended Route
To recreate the film’s scenes, it is recommended to start at Sakuragicho Station. The scenery around the station also appears in the film and allows you to sense the traces of the past.
Recommended Route:
- Sakuragicho Station (Keihin-Tohoku Line / Negishi Line)
- Walk toward the Red Brick Warehouse (approximately 15 minutes)
- Enter Yamashita Park from the north end
- Head south toward the Hikawa Maru
- Pass in front of Hotel New Grand
- Head toward Yokohama Marine Tower
By following this route, you can experience the path that Umi and Shun walked in almost perfect fidelity. The time required is approximately one to one and a half hours, including photography.
Shooting Spots and Best Angles
The Stern of the Hikawa Maru:
The angle viewing the Hikawa Maru from around the center of Yamashita Park is the composition closest to the film’s scene. Photography at dusk is especially recommended, with the ship’s silhouette beautifully illuminated.
The Hotel New Grand Sign:
The “HOTEL NEW GRAND” lettering as seen from the Yamashita Park side is an important shot in the film. Photographing from the park’s promenade allows you to capture the same composition as the film.
Yokohama Marine Tower:
The Marine Tower as seen from near the south end of Yamashita Park evokes the final scene of the film. The illuminated appearance at night is particularly striking.
Points of Interest Within Yamashita Park
Indian Water Tower:
A monument donated by the Indian Association in Japan in 1939 (Showa 14), it was already in existence during the film’s era.
Statue of the Little Girl in Red Shoes:
A statue of the girl who was the model for the children’s song “Red Shoes,” it was installed in 1979, so it did not exist during the film’s time period, but it is one of Yamashita Park’s symbols.
Hikawa Maru Ship Interior Tour:
A paid admission (General ¥300) allows visitors to explore the ship’s interior. The first-class cabins, dining room, pilot house, and other areas are preserved as they were, offering an experience of the atmosphere of a luxury liner from the early Showa period. Operating hours are 10:00-17:00 (admission until 16:30), closed Mondays (or the following weekday if Monday is a holiday).
“From Up on Poppy Hill” Related Spots Around Yamashita Park
Osanbashi (Yokohama Port Osanbashi International Passenger Terminal)
Although not directly featured in the film, Osanbashi, located about a 5-minute walk from Yamashita Park, functioned as a departure and arrival point for international passenger ships in 1963. While the current building dates from a 2002 renovation, the rooftop deck “Kujira no Senaka” offers a panoramic view of Yamashita Park and the Hikawa Maru.
Yokohama Chinatown
Yokohama Chinatown, located about a 5-minute walk from Yamashita Park, is a historic area that also existed during the film’s era. It was already known as Japan’s largest Chinatown in 1963. It is also recommended as a dining spot after a pilgrimage to the sacred sites.
Minato no Mieru Oka Park (Park Where the Harbor is Visible)
Minato no Mieru Oka Park, one of the important settings in “From Up on Poppy Hill,” is about a 15-minute walk from Yamashita Park. The area is concentrated with settings for important film scenes, including the place that served as the model for Coquelicot Manor and the hill that served as Umi’s commute route.
Visiting both Yamashita Park and this park allows for a more fulfilling pilgrimage experience.
The Charm of 1963 Yokohama as Depicted in “From Up on Poppy Hill”
The Face of a Harbor Town During Rapid Economic Growth
1963, the setting of the film, was a time when Japan was in the midst of rapid economic growth, with the Tokyo Olympics just the following year. Yokohama Harbor prospered as an international trade port, serving as a window for the influx of foreign culture.
The area around Yamashita Park symbolized Yokohama’s modern, sophisticated culture. The landscape where Western-style hotels like Hotel New Grand, luxury liners like the Hikawa Maru, and new landmarks like Yokohama Marine Tower coexisted speaks to Yokohama’s vitality at the time.
The Value of Unchanged Scenery
One of the great attractions of “From Up on Poppy Hill” is that many of the landscapes depicted in the film still exist today. The Yamashita Park scenes in particular—the Hikawa Maru, Hotel New Grand, park promenade, and more—can be seen in almost the same form even over 60 years later.
This is the result of Yokohama’s efforts to carefully preserve historic buildings and scenery, and it provides film fans with a precious opportunity to step into the world of the work.
A Nostalgic Showa Atmosphere
The film beautifully merges the brightness of 1963’s rapid economic growth period with the sentimentality of a nostalgic, classic era. In the Yamashita Park scene, modern architecture, lush parkland, and the serene landscape of Yokohama Harbor harmonize, expressing the atmosphere of an era that is nostalgic yet filled with hope.
The scene of Umi and Shun walking through Yamashita Park is both an important moment in which their relationship deepens and a memorable scene that impressively captures the beauty of Yokohama at the time.
Practical Information to Know Before Visiting
Access
Train:
- Minatomirai Line, “Motomachi-Chukagai Station” Exit 4, 3 minutes on foot
- JR Negishi Line, “Ishikawa-cho Station” Chinatown Exit, 15 minutes on foot
- JR Negishi Line / Yokohama Municipal Subway, “Sakuragicho Station,” 15 minutes on foot
To recreate the film’s scenes, approaching from Sakuragicho Station is recommended.
Bus:
Yokohama City Bus “Chinatown Entrance” stop, just off the bus
Basic Information
Address: 279 Yamashita-cho, Naka Ward, Yokohama, Kanagawa Prefecture
Opening Hours: 24 hours open (Hikawa Maru: 10:00-17:00)
Admission: Free (Hikawa Maru interior tour is paid: General ¥300, Senior (65+) ¥200, Junior/High School and Elementary School Students ¥100)
Parking: Yamashita Park Parking Lot available (paid)
Best Season to Visit
Spring (late March – May):
Roses and seasonal flowers bloom beautifully, making the park most beautiful during this season. The rose bloom in May especially is busy with many tourists.
Autumn (October – November):
The weather is mild, making it ideal for walking. Autumn roses are also enjoyable.
Dusk to Evening:
To recreate the film’s scenes, the time from dusk through night is recommended. The illuminated Marine Tower and the silhouette of the Hikawa Maru are particularly beautiful.
Dining and Rest Areas Nearby
Hotel New Grand:
A classic hotel that also appears in the film, where you can use its cafe and restaurants. “The Cafe,” famous as the birthplace of Napolitan, allows you to taste the traditional Napolitan.
Yamashita Park Rest House:
A rest facility within the park where light meals and drinks can be purchased.
Yokohama Chinatown:
Within a 5-minute walk is Japan’s largest Chinatown with a diverse array of dining establishments.
A Message to “From Up on Poppy Hill” Fans
Yamashita Park is one of the locations that most vividly preserves the world of “From Up on Poppy Hill.” The promenade where Umi and Shun walked, the Hikawa Maru and Hotel New Grand that appeared in the background, and the brightly shining Marine Tower. All of these still exist in the same locations today, offering an experience as if stepping into the world of the film.
More than 60 years have passed since 1963, yet the landscape of Yamashita Park is surprisingly unchanged from the film. This is also evidence that Yokohama as a city has developed while cherishing history and tradition.
When visiting Yamashita Park for a pilgrimage to sacred sites, please take your time wandering while recalling the scenes from the film. You will surely be able to experience the wind that Umi and Shun felt, the scent of the harbor, and the sentimentality of the Showa era in the same place today.
We especially recommend visiting the interior of the Hikawa Maru. By exploring the interior of this luxury liner, which may have served as the model for the “Koyo Maru” in the film’s final scene, your understanding of the work will deepen further.
Yamashita Park is not merely a filming location for the movie but a valuable place where one can experience Yokohama’s history and culture. Why not rediscover the charm of this beautiful park through the wonderful work that is “From Up on Poppy Hill”?
