[Studio Ghibli] Spirited Away – Dogo Onsen Main Building, Ehime Prefecture

Introduction: The Connection Between Spirited Away and Dogo Onsen Honkan

Studio Ghibli’s masterpiece “Spirited Away,” which premiered in 2001, has continued to captivate audiences both domestically and internationally. Dogo Onsen Honkan, located in Matsuyama, Ehime Prefecture, is known as one of the models for the “Bathhouse” (Yuna-ya), the mystical bathhouse that appears in this work.

Director Hayao Miyazaki is said to have actually visited Dogo Onsen Honkan and drawn inspiration from its unique architectural style and atmosphere. It has become an essential pilgrimage site for Studio Ghibli fans. This article will provide a detailed explanation of the relationship between Spirited Away and Dogo Onsen Honkan, its historical background, and practical information for visiting.

About Dogo Onsen Honkan: The History of Japan’s Oldest Hot Spring

Dogo Onsen with 3,000 Years of History

Dogo Onsen is a historic hot spring listed as one of Japan’s Three Ancient Hot Springs, appearing in both the Nihon Shoki and the Man’yōshū. Its history spans approximately 3,000 years, and it has long been beloved by imperial families and scholars. It also appears in Natsume Soseki’s novel “Botchan,” connecting it deeply with literature.

The Architectural Beauty of Dogo Onsen Honkan

The current building of Dogo Onsen Honkan was constructed in 1894 (Meiji 27). The weighty wooden three-story structure conveys the beauty of traditional Japanese architecture to the present day, and in 1994 it was designated as a National Important Cultural Property.

The building’s characteristics include:

• Three-story wooden structure: Intricately layered architecture
• Shinro-kaku (bell tower): A drum tower with red railings rising from the roof
• Karahafu-style roof: A traditional roof style with elegant curves
• Lattice windows and plaster walls: External appearance condensing Japanese aesthetic sensibility

These architectural elements are believed to have influenced the exterior design of the bathhouse in Spirited Away.

Specific Connections with Spirited Away

Director Hayao Miyazaki’s Visit to Dogo Onsen

Director Hayao Miyazaki visited Dogo Onsen Honkan before producing “Spirited Away.” The director conducted research at hot springs and historical buildings throughout Japan, using them as sources of inspiration for his work. Dogo Onsen Honkan was reportedly one of the particularly memorable locations among them.

Common Points Between the Bathhouse and Dogo Onsen Honkan

The “Bathhouse” depicted in the film and Dogo Onsen Honkan share several fascinating common features:

Architectural Style Similarities

• Multi-story wooden structure
• Intricately layered levels and corridors
• Red railings and decorative elements
• Warm lighting that illuminates at night

Atmospheric Similarities

• A mystical, otherworldly space
• Traditional Japanese hot spring culture
• A sense of time as if stepping back in time
• An image of a place where the eight million gods gather

The Bathhouse as a Fusion of Multiple Models

As an important point, the bathhouse was not modeled solely on Dogo Onsen Honkan. Director Miyazaki drew inspiration from multiple locations, reportedly including:

• Meguro Gajoen (Tokyo): Luxurious and ornate interior
• Edo-Tokyo Museum (Tokyo): Showa-era architecture such as Kodakara-yu
• Kanaguy of Shibu Onsen (Nagano): Wooden multi-story structure

These elements fused together to create the film’s unique “Bathhouse.” Among them, Dogo Onsen Honkan is one of the facilities that had a significant influence on the exterior and overall atmosphere.

Highlights and Experiences at Dogo Onsen Honkan

Types of Bathing Courses

Dogo Onsen Honkan offers multiple bathing courses (※As of 2024, some facilities have usage restrictions due to preservation and repair work):

Kami-no-Yu Ground Floor

• The most affordable course
• Large public bath only
• Admission: approximately 460 yen for adults

Kami-no-Yu Second Floor Seating

• After bathing, access to the second-floor rest room
• Tea and snacks included
• Yukata rental available

Tama-no-Yu Third Floor Private Room

• The most luxurious course
• Access to the “Tama-no-Yu,” a special bath
• Relaxing in a private rest room on the third floor

The Drum of Shinro-kaku

At Shinro-kaku on the roof of Dogo Onsen Honkan, a drum is struck three times daily (6 a.m., noon, and 6 p.m.). The sound of this drum has been selected as one of “100 Selections of Japanese Soundscapes,” and is cherished as an iconic sound of Dogo Onsen.

In Spirited Away as well, the bathhouse’s rooftop features a drum tower-like structure, showing the influence of this Shinro-kaku.

Yushin-den (Matashin-den)

Yushin-den, the imperial bathing facility built in 1899, is typically not available for bathing, but viewing is possible (confirmation required). Its stately architecture and decoration embody the image of “a bathhouse where gods gather.”

Spirited Away Locations Around Dogo Onsen

Dogo Onsen Shopping Street

The Dogo Haikara-dori shopping street spread out in front of Dogo Onsen Honkan preserves the atmosphere of a traditional hot spring town. With souvenir shops, eateries, and shooting galleries lining the street, you can enjoy a nostalgic atmosphere that echoes the world of the film.

Botchan Train at Dogo Onsen Station

The Botchan Train operated by Iyo Railway is a sightseeing train featuring a restored Meiji-era steam locomotive. The retro vehicles are reminiscent of the train scenes in Spirited Away.

Dogo Onsen Honkan at Night

After sunset, the illuminated Dogo Onsen Honkan is exactly like the bathhouse in Spirited Away. The wooden structure lit by warm light creates a fantastical atmosphere completely different from daytime. For Studio Ghibli fans, a nighttime visit is essential.

Visitor Guide to Dogo Onsen Honkan

Access Methods

By Train

• Approximately 25 minutes by Iyo Railway tram from JR Matsuyama Station
• Get off at “Dogo Onsen Station,” 5-minute walk

By Airplane

• Approximately 40 minutes by limousine bus from Matsuyama Airport
• Get off at Dogo Onsen bus stop

By Car

• Approximately 30 minutes from “Matsuyama IC” on the Matsuyama Expressway
• Paid parking available nearby

Preservation and Repair Work (Important)

Dogo Onsen Honkan has been undergoing preservation and repair work since January 2019. The work is being conducted in stages, and some facilities may be unavailable during certain periods. Be sure to check the official website for the latest information before visiting.

During the construction period, the exterior remains viewable, and some bathing facilities continue to operate. Additionally, an observation deck has been set up to view the work, allowing visitors to observe the valuable restoration process.

Best Seasons to Visit

Spring (March–May)

• Can be enjoyed alongside the cherry blossoms at Matsuyama Castle
• Mild climate ideal for sightseeing

Autumn (October–November)

• Beautiful season for autumn foliage
• Comfortable temperature for hot springs

Winter (December–February)

• Most pleasant season for hot springs
• Relatively fewer tourists

Nearby Accommodations

There are numerous hot spring inns and hotels around Dogo Onsen:

• Historic inns: Funaya, Yamato-ya Honten and other traditional establishments
• Modern hotels: Dogo Prince Hotel and other contemporary facilities
• Budget-friendly accommodations: Guest houses and private inns are also abundant

Combining a visit to Dogo Onsen Honkan’s public bath with accommodation allows for a deeper experience of hot spring culture.

Trivia to Enjoy Spirited Away Even More

The Film’s Setting and Hot Spring Culture

“Spirited Away” is a work that fuses Japan’s traditional hot spring culture with the world of eight million Shinto gods. The setting is that the “Bathhouse” where the protagonist Chihiro works is a bathhouse visited by gods to ease their fatigue.

This setting reflects the Japanese cultural tradition of valuing hot springs as “places to purify oneself of impurity and heal body and mind.” Dogo Onsen is one of the symbolic places of such Japanese hot spring culture.

Debates About the Bathhouse Model

Various theories about the bathhouse’s model circulate on the internet. However, Director Miyazaki himself has not explicitly stated that it was based on any single specific location. Rather, it is most appropriate to think that he reflected in the work the overall impressions he gathered from hot spring architecture and historical buildings throughout Japan.

Dogo Onsen Honkan is best positioned as one such “source of inspiration.” Still, its architectural beauty and historical value make it a place worth visiting not only for Studio Ghibli fans but for anyone.

Combining Dogo Onsen and Matsuyama Sightseeing

Matsuyama Castle

Matsuyama Castle, located about 20 minutes from Dogo Onsen by city tram, is one of Japan’s twelve surviving original castles and is designated as a National Important Cultural Property. The view from the tower overlooks Matsuyama’s streets and the Seto Inland Sea, making it a must-visit sightseeing spot alongside Dogo Onsen.

Botchan Dango and Local Cuisine

Local gourmet delights are another enjoyment:

• Botchan dango: Three-colored dumplings named after Natsume Soseki’s novel
• Tai-meshi: Matsuyama specialty (Matsuyama and Uwajima styles exist)
• Jako-ten: Fried fish cake made from fish paste
• Mandarin orange sweets: Ehime is a mandarin orange-producing region

The Dogo Onsen shopping street has many shops where you can enjoy these specialties.

Literary Walks

Matsuyama is also known as a “city of literature.” There are many sites associated with literary figures such as Natsume Soseki, Masaoka Shiki, and Santoka Taneda, and a walking course visiting literary monuments and memorial halls is popular.

Notes and Etiquette for Pilgrimage Visits

Photography Etiquette

Dogo Onsen Honkan is a tourist destination visited by many people. When photographing, keep the following points in mind:

• Be considerate so other tourists are not photographed
• Photography is prohibited inside bathing areas
• Avoid using tripods during crowded times
• Obtain permission before photographing shop interiors on the shopping street

Hot Spring Bathing Etiquette

Respect Japanese hot spring culture and bathe appropriately:

• Wash your body before bathing (rinse with water first)
• Do not put towels in the bathwater
• Tie up long hair
• Do not speak loudly
• Photography is strictly prohibited

Consideration for the Local Community

Dogo Onsen is also a place of everyday life for local residents. As a visitor, be mindful of appropriate behavior and respect the local culture.

Conclusion: The Charm of Spirited Away and Dogo Onsen Honkan

Dogo Onsen Honkan in Matsuyama, Ehime Prefecture, is a beautifully preserved structure with some 3,000 years of history, among Japan’s oldest hot springs and designated a National Important Cultural Property. It has become a pilgrimage destination for many Studio Ghibli fans as one of the sources of inspiration for the bathhouse in the studio’s masterpiece “Spirited Away.”

Dogo Onsen Honkan, which Director Hayao Miyazaki actually visited and was said to draw inspiration from its complex wooden architecture, the Shinro-kaku drum tower, and its nighttime illumination, is a precious place where you can feel the world of the film while actually bathing in hot spring water and experiencing Japan’s traditional hot spring culture.

Currently undergoing preservation and repair work, it retains its beauty and historical value undiminished. Rather, it offers a rare opportunity to witness the restoration process of traditional architecture.

Whether as a Studio Ghibli fan pilgrimage or as a journey to deepen knowledge of Japanese hot spring culture, a visit to Dogo Onsen Honkan will become an unforgettable memory. Combined with Matsuyama Castle, the Botchan Train, and local cuisine, be sure to fully savor the charms of Matsuyama and Dogo Onsen.

Reflecting on the world of Spirited Away while soaking in historic hot springs—such a special experience awaits you.