【Complete Guide】The Setting of My Neighbor Totoro: The Sayama Hills (Totoro Forest) Thoroughly Explained
“My Neighbor Totoro” is an immortal masterpiece of Studio Ghibli released in 1988. The Sayama Hills, which stretch from Tokorozawa City in Saitama Prefecture to Higashimurayama City in Tokyo, also known as the “Totoro Forest,” served as the model for the beautiful rural landscape depicted by director Hayao Miyazaki.
This article provides detailed information based on on-site research, covering the charm of the Sayama Hills that every Totoro fan should visit at least once, specific pilgrimage spots, access methods, and how to enjoy the area throughout the four seasons.
The Deep Connection Between My Neighbor Totoro and the Sayama Hills
Director Hayao Miyazaki’s Connection to the Sayama Hills
Director Hayao Miyazaki lived in Tokorozawa City for a period and was deeply enchanted by the abundant natural beauty of the Sayama Hills. During film production, he repeatedly sketched the region’s deciduous forests, streams, and farmland, which were incorporated into the film’s setting. Locations such as “Hachikoku Mountain Greenbelt,” believed to be the model for the Shichikoku Mountain Hospital featured in the film, and places where you can feel the atmosphere of the old folk house where Satsuki and Mei live are scattered throughout the Sayama Hills.
The Origin of the Nickname “Totoro Forest”
The Sayama Hills came to be called “Totoro Forest” as a spontaneously spreading term among fans after the film’s release. In the 1990s, the “Totoro’s Hometown Fund” was established to protect this precious natural environment, and National Trust activities have been advancing greenbelt conservation efforts.
Currently, more than 50 preserved lands, from “Totoro’s Forest No. 1” onward, are scattered throughout the area, each maintaining a rich ecosystem.
Basic Information and Access Methods for the Sayama Hills
Geography and Scope of the Sayama Hills
The Sayama Hills cover approximately 3,500 hectares of rolling terrain spanning Tokorozawa, Iruma, and Sayama cities in Saitama Prefecture, and Higashimurayama, Yamato, Musashimurayama, and Mizuho towns in Tokyo. Although the highest elevation is only around 200 meters, the terrain is characterized by varied topography.
Main Areas:
- Surroundings of Sayama Lake (Yamaguchidam Reservoir)
- Surroundings of Tamagawa Lake (Murayama Dam Reservoir)
- Hachikoku Mountain Greenbelt
- Totoro’s Forest Preserved Lands (No. 1 onwards)
- Crooked House Surroundings
Access by Train
Using Seibu Line (Most Recommended):
- Seibu Ikebukuro Line “Kotesashi Station”
- Approximately 30 minutes by express from Ikebukuro
- Convenient access to Totoro’s Forest No. 1 and Crooked House
- 20-30 minutes on foot or by bus from the station
- Seibu Tamagawa Lake Line “Seibu Yuenchi Station”
- Optimal access to Hachikoku Mountain Greenbelt and Tamagawa Lake surroundings
- 10-15 minutes on foot to the Hachikoku Mountain Greenbelt entrance
- Seibu Sayama Line “Seibu Stadium-mae Station”
- Convenient for exploring the Sayama Lake area
- Approximately 15 minutes on foot to Sayama Lake embankment
Using JR Line:
- JR Musashino Line “Higashi-Tokorozawa Station”
- Access point from the south
- 25-35 minutes on foot or by bus
Access by Car and Parking Information
Major Roads:
- Approximately 15-20 minutes from “Tokorozawa IC” on the Kan-Etsu Expressway
- Approximately 20 minutes from “Iruma IC” on the Kanto-Circular Expressway
Parking:
- Sayama Lake area: Free parking spaces available (crowded on weekends)
- Tamagawa Lake area: Parkable areas along the embankment
- Crooked House: No dedicated parking (nearby coin parking available)
Note: Vehicle entry into preserved lands is generally prohibited. Use designated parking areas and explore on foot.
Essential Totoro Pilgrimage Spots!
1. Crooked House (Former Tokorozawa City Staff Residential Quarters)
Most Important Spot!
Crooked House is believed to be one of the models for the old folk house where Satsuki and Mei live in the film. With over 100 years of history, this traditional Japanese house features an irori (hearth) and engawa (veranda), vividly preserving the atmosphere of the 1950s.
Basic Information:
- Address: 3-1169-1 Mikaijima, Tokorozawa, Saitama
- Open Days: Tuesday, Wednesday, and Saturday (excluding holidays)
- Hours: 10:00 AM-3:00 PM
- Admission: Free (donations welcome)
- Official Site: Check with Totoro’s Hometown Fund
Highlights:
- Old well pump (reminiscent of scenes where Mei plays)
- Garden views from the veranda
- Hearth-centered living room
- Detailed explanations from volunteer staff
Visiting Tips: Since opening hours are limited, check the official site beforehand. Interior photography may be restricted, so confirm with staff.
2. Hachikoku Mountain Greenbelt
This location is believed to be the model for the “Shichikoku Mountain Hospital” featured in the film. While there is no actual hospital, the atmosphere and forest scenery of the rolling hills overlap with scenes from the movie.
Basic Information:
- Location: Higashimurayama and Tokorozawa
- Access: 10 minutes on foot from Seibu Yuenchi Station on the Seibu Tamagawa Lake Line
- Entry: Free (no admission fee)
- Trails: Well-maintained walking paths
Highlights:
- Views from Shogun Mound observation deck
- Deciduous forest walking paths (stunning spring greenery and autumn foliage)
- Bird-watching spots
- Insect collection areas (designated locations only)
Recommended Course: Seibu Yuenchi Station → Hachikoku Mountain Greenbelt entrance → Shogun Mound observation deck → Ridge trail → Northern exit (approximately 1.5-2 hours)
3. Totoro’s Forest No. 1
The first preserved land, protected in 1991, this forest is a typical deciduous woodland of the Sayama Hills, where Japanese chestnuts, konara oaks, and rose myrtle thrive, displaying changing seasonal appearances.
Basic Information:
- Location: Kamiyamaguchi, Tokorozawa, Saitama
- Access: 15 minutes on foot from Shimoyamaguchi Station on the Seibu Sayama Line
- Entry: Free (open for exploration)
Features:
- The birthplace of conservation efforts
- Typical rural woodland environment
- Spring wildflowers, summer insects, and autumn acorn gathering
4. Sayama Lake (Yamaguchidam Reservoir)
An extensive artificial lake whose surrounding scenery is said to have influenced the background paintings of the film. The lakeside walking paths are well-maintained, ideal for walking and cycling.
Basic Information:
- Location: Tokorozawa and Iruma, Saitama
- Access: 15 minutes on foot from Seibu Stadium-mae Station on the Seibu Sayama Line
- Parking: Available (free, but crowded on weekends)
Highlights:
- Views from the embankment (Mt. Fuji visible on clear days)
- Cherry blossom-lined lakeshore (spring)
- Bird-watching (kingfishers, ducks, etc.)
- Cycling road
5. Tamagawa Lake (Murayama Dam Reservoir)
Located beside Sayama Lake, this reservoir also offers beautiful scenery. The approximately 12-kilometer cycling route encircling the lake is popular with local cyclists.
Basic Information:
- Location: Higashiyamato and Musashimurayama, Tokyo
- Access: 10 minutes on foot from Musashiyamato Station on the Seibu Tamagawa Lake Line
Recommended Activities:
- Cycling (bike rentals available)
- Bird-watching
- Embankment walking
6. Fuchi no Mori Greenbelt
Located at the border between Tokorozawa and Higashimurayama, this is a valuable forest with natural springs. The place is popular among fans as resembling the scenes of streams and waterside settings in the film.
Basic Information:
- Location: Tokorozawa, Saitama and Higashimurayama, Tokyo
- Access: Bus from Tokorozawa Station on the Seibu Ikebukuro Line
Features:
- Natural springs and streams
- Water plant observation
- Serene forest atmosphere
Enjoying the Sayama Hills Through the Four Seasons
Spring (March-May)
Highlights:
- Cherry blossom bloom (Sayama Lake and Tamagawa Lake areas): Late March to early April
- Wildflower blooms: Dogtooth violet, violet, false hellebore, etc.
- Fresh green deciduous forest: Late April to May
- Active bird singing during breeding season
Recommended Activities:
- Flower viewing walks
- Bird-watching
- Forest bathing walks
Summer (June-August)
Highlights:
- Deep green forest: Vibrant landscape
- Insect observation: Beetles, stag beetles, butterflies
- Cool lakeside: Refreshing waterside breeze
- Firefly viewing (certain areas): Mid-June to early July
Recommended Activities:
- Early morning walks (cooler times)
- Insect observation sessions (hosted by Totoro’s Hometown Fund)
- Lakeside picnicking
Notes: Take full heat stroke and insect repellent precautions.
Autumn (September-November)
Highlights:
- Autumn leaves: Peak from late October to mid-November
- Acorn gathering: Popular with children
- Autumn wildflowers
- Migratory bird arrivals
Recommended Activities:
- Autumn foliage viewing walks
- Acorn crafts (events held at Crooked House)
- Photography (beautiful light and shadow contrasts)
Best Season: Early November combines autumn foliage with pleasant weather for optimal comfort.
Winter (December-February)
Highlights:
- Bright forest floor after leaf fall
- Winter bird observation: Red-flanked bluetail, pale thrush, etc.
- Frost pillars and winter silence
- Mt. Fuji views on clear days
Recommended Activities:
- Bird-watching
- Winter forest bathing (fewer people, quieter)
- Views from observation spots
Notes: Dress warmly. Note sunset times as street lighting is scarce.
Conservation Activities to Protect Totoro’s Forest: “Totoro’s Hometown Fund”
What Is the National Trust Movement?
The “Totoro’s Hometown Fund” was established in 1990 to protect the natural environment of the Sayama Hills. This National Trust movement acquires land through citizen donations and protects it from development.
Achievements to Date
- Preserved Lands: 50 locations and above (as of 2024)
- Preserved Area: Over 10 hectares
- Activities: Land acquisition, conservation management, environmental education, event hosting
Ways to Support
Donations:
- Starting from 1,000 yen per share
- Credit card and bank transfer accepted
- Apply through the official website
Volunteer Participation:
- Forest maintenance work
- Crooked House operation assistance
- Event staffing
Totoro Members:
- Annual fee: 3,000 yen for adults, 1,000 yen for students
- Mailed newsletters
- Priority event information
Visitors can also support activities to preserve this beautiful nature for future generations.
Recommended Model Courses for Exploring the Sayama Hills
Beginner Half-Day Course (Approximately 3 Hours)
Starting from Seibu Yuenchi Station:
- Seibu Yuenchi Station (Start)
- Hachikoku Mountain Greenbelt entrance (10 minutes on foot)
- Shogun Mound observation deck (20 minutes on foot)
- Hachikoku Mountain Greenbelt exploration (30 minutes)
- Tamagawa Lake embankment (15 minutes on foot)
- Tamagawa Lake area exploration and rest (40 minutes)
- Musashiyamato Station (15 minutes on foot, Goal)
Distance: Approximately 5 km
Difficulty: Easy
Recommended Season: Spring and autumn
Totoro Fan All-Day Course (Approximately 6 Hours)
Starting from Kotesashi Station:
- Kotesashi Station (Start)
- Travel to Crooked House by bus or foot (30 minutes)
- Crooked House tour (60 minutes)
- Totoro’s Forest No. 1 exploration (40 minutes)
- Lunch break (60 minutes, bring your own recommended)
- Move to Sayama Lake (30 minutes on foot)
- Sayama Lake embankment walk (40 minutes)
- Sayama Lake forest exploration (40 minutes)
- Seibu Stadium-mae Station (20 minutes on foot, Goal)
Distance: Approximately 8-10 km
Difficulty: Moderate
Recommended Season: Spring and autumn (coordinate with Crooked House opening days)
Advanced Long Course (Approximately 8 Hours)
Starting from Tokorozawa Station, ending at Seibu Stadium-mae Station:
- Tokorozawa Station (Start)
- Fuchi no Mori Greenbelt (40 minutes by bus and foot)
- Fuchi no Mori exploration (40 minutes)
- Move to Hachikoku Mountain Greenbelt (50 minutes on foot)
- Hachikoku Mountain Greenbelt exploration (60 minutes)
- Lunch break (60 minutes)
- Tamagawa Lake cycling or walking circuit (120 minutes)
- Move to Sayama Lake (40 minutes on foot)
- Sayama Lake area exploration (40 minutes)
- Seibu Stadium-mae Station (20 minutes on foot, Goal)
Distance: Approximately 15-20 km
Difficulty: Somewhat challenging
Recommended Season: Spring and autumn with favorable weather
Precautions and Etiquette When Visiting
Clothing and Gear
Clothing:
- Comfortable hiking shoes (trekking shoes recommended)
- Long sleeves and pants (to prevent insect bites and scratches from vegetation)
- Hat (to protect from sun and branches)
- Season-appropriate outerwear and rain gear
What to Bring:
- Drinking water (few vending machines)
- Light snacks and energy food
- Map and smartphone (check signal coverage)
- Insect repellent (spring through autumn)
- Sunscreen
- Towel
- Trash bags (must take all trash home)
- Camera and binoculars (optional)
Forest Conservation Etiquette
- Always take your trash with you – Almost no trash bins available
- Do not collect plants – Many protected species
- Do not capture wildlife – Observation only
- Stick to designated paths – To prevent trampling
- No open flames – Smoking prohibited except in designated areas
- Keep noise levels down – Consideration for wildlife
- Keep pets on leashes – Some areas prohibit pets
- Do not trespass on private property – Non-preserved areas may be privately owned
Safety Considerations
- Avoid going alone – Better with companions
- Check weather beforehand – Rain makes trails slippery and dangerous
- Descend before sunset – Almost no street lighting
- Heat stroke prevention – Especially in summer
- Beware of bees – Wasps are active July to October
- Tick prevention – Long sleeves and pants essential spring through autumn
- Note emergency contacts – Check cellular coverage
Nearby Attractions and Dining
Nearby Tourist Spots
Seibu-En Amusement Park:
- Amusement park themed around Showa retro
- Right at Seibu Yuenchi Station
- Can be enjoyed with family alongside forest exploration
Tokorozawa Aviation Memorial Park:
- Birthplace of Japanese aviation
- Extensive lawn areas
- Aviation history museum
Kadokawa Musashino Museum:
- Complex cultural facility designed by architect Kengo Kuma
- Impressive bookshelf theater
- Bus from Tokorozawa Station
Recommended Cafes and Dining Spots
Lakeside Cafes and Restaurants:
- Cafes Along Sayama Lake
- Rest while overlooking the lake
- Light snacks and drinks
- Historic Townhouse Cafes in Tokorozawa
- Retro atmosphere
- Homemade cakes and lunch
Local Cuisine:
- Tokorozawa Udon – Handmade noodles from local makers
- Sayama Tea – Saitama’s premium tea
- Local Vegetable Market Stands – Fresh seasonal produce
Convenience Stores and Supermarkets:
- Concentrated near stations
- Few in forest areas, so purchase beforehand is recommended
Accommodation Information
Within day-trip range, but for those wishing to spend more time:
- Business Hotels in Tokorozawa – Convenient near stations
- Hot Spring Inns in Iruma – Relax after walking
- Campgrounds – Overnight camping experience in nature
Events and Experience Programs in Totoro’s Forest
Events Hosted by Totoro’s Hometown Fund
Regular Events:
- Forest Maintenance Volunteer Work
- Held 1-2 times monthly
- Grass cutting, leaf raking, etc.
- Beginners welcome, tools provided
- Nature Observation Sessions
- Seasonal themes (birds, insects, plants, etc.)
- Expert explanations
- Pre-registration required
- Crooked House Events
- Seasonal craft workshops
- Traditional play experiences
- Kamishibai picture shows and storytelling
Annual Events:
- Spring: Cherry blossom festivals, wildflower observation
- Summer: Insect observation, firefly viewing
- Autumn: Acorn gathering, autumn foliage walks
- Winter: Bird-watching, mochi pounding
Environmental Education Programs
For Schools and Groups:
- Forest ecosystem learning
- Rural conservation experiences
- Totoro’s Forest guided tours
Inquiry: Totoro’s Hometown Fund headquarters
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q1: Is the Sayama Hills really the model for My Neighbor Totoro?
A1: Director Hayao Miyazaki has not officially stated “model,” but it is widely known that during his residence in Tokorozawa, he deeply observed this region’s nature and it significantly influenced the film’s setting. Studio Ghibli also supports conservation activities in the Sayama Hills, and it is recognized as a place where you can experience the film’s world view.
Q2: Can you meet Totoro?
A2: Unfortunately, you cannot meet the actual Totoro. However, walking through abundant nature will bring back scenes from the film, and you can fully experience the atmosphere where Totoro might exist. In quiet forests or beautiful leaf-dappled paths, you may be engulfed in a mysterious sensation.
Q3: Can families with children enjoy it?
A3: Yes, absolutely. However, some trails are more challenging, so choose routes suited to your child’s age and fitness level. Areas around Crooked House and well-maintained Hachikoku Mountain Greenbelt trails are easy for young children. Activities children enjoy, such as acorn gathering and insect observation, are abundant.
Q4: How much time is needed?
A4: This varies by purpose. Crooked House alone takes 1-2 hours, Hachikoku Mountain Greenbelt exploration 2-3 hours, and visiting multiple spots takes half to a full day. For those wishing to thoroughly enjoy nature, spending a full day on a leisurely walk is recommended.
Q5: Can you enjoy it on rainy days?
A5: Rainy forests have unique beauty, but trails become slippery and dangerous, so full exploration is not recommended. Light rain allows short walks in rain gear. On rainy days, visiting Crooked House (open days only) or nearby indoor facilities (such as Kadokawa Musashino Museum) is also good.
Q6: Can you bring pets?
A6: Some preserved lands allow pets with leashes. However, Crooked House interior prohibits pets, and some preserved lands prohibit entry. Pre-check with Totoro’s Hometown Fund. Be sure to dispose of waste properly as a courtesy.
Q7: Is photography freely permitted?
A7: Nature landscape photography is generally free. However, interior photography at Crooked House may be restricted—confirm with staff. Be considerate of other visitors’ privacy when people appear in photos. Commercial use requires separate permission.
Q8: Is barrier-free access available?
A8: Unfortunately, trails utilizing natural terrain make complete barrier-free access difficult. However, the Sayama Lake and Tamagawa Lake embankment sections are relatively flat and wheelchair-accessible in some areas. Pre-inquiry about specific routes is recommended.
Conclusion: Experience Heart-Healing Moments in Totoro’s Forest
The Sayama Hills in Saitama Prefecture, commonly known as “Totoro’s Forest,” is not merely a film pilgrimage site. It is a precious rural woodland environment that, while only an hour from the city center, maintains a rich ecosystem.
The seasonal transitions of nature, bird songs, and rustling trees—all teach us the importance of coexistence with nature. Director Hayao Miyazaki’s depiction of “My Neighbor Totoro” captured the very essence of this place.
When visiting, respect nature conservation etiquette and walk slowly through the forest. Don’t rush—sharpen all five senses. You may then recover a mysterious sensation of Totoro’s presence and regain the childhood sensitivity you had nearly forgotten.
And pay attention to Totoro’s Hometown Fund’s conservation activities to preserve this beautiful nature for future generations. Your visit may be the first step toward supporting preservation efforts.
Totoro’s Forest waits for you, always.
—
Confirming Latest Information:
- Totoro’s Hometown Fund official website
- Tokorozawa Tourism Association
- Saitama Prefecture official tourism site “Choko-tabi Saitama”
Contact:
- Public Interest Incorporated Foundation Totoro’s Hometown Fund
- Tokorozawa Tourism Information and Product Hall (YOT-TOKO)
- Tokorozawa City Green and Nature Division
※Information is current as of 2024. Please confirm the latest information before visiting.