‘Demon Slayer’ Popular Character Kanao Tsuyuri’s Birthplace: A Guide to Ushijima Shrine and Akiba Shrine in Mukojima, Sumida Ward, Tokyo
Mukojima in Sumida Ward, Tokyo, is known as the birthplace of Kanao Tsuyuri, a popular character from ‘Demon Slayer’ (Kimetsu no Yaiba). Ushijima Shrine and Akiba Shrine, which have long been revered as the local protective deities of this area, have become notable pilgrimage destinations among Demon Slayer fans. This article comprehensively covers the detailed history of both shrines, information on goshuin (shrine stamps), access methods, and highlights within the grounds—everything needed for a pilgrimage visit.
The Connection Between Kanao Tsuyuri and Mukojima, Sumida Ward
Kanao Tsuyuri’s Profile and Birthplace
Kanao Tsuyuri is a Demon Slayer Corps swordsman in ‘Demon Slayer’ and is known as the Tsuguko (successor) of Shinobu Kocho, the Insect Pillar. According to the official fan book, Kanao’s birthplace is listed as “Tokyo Prefecture Honjo Ward Mukojima.”
Honjo Ward corresponds to present-day Sumida Ward, and Mukojima is a historic area located on the eastern bank of the Sumida River. In ‘Demon Slayer,’ set in Taisho-era Tokyo, this place where Kanao was born and raised is known as a downtown area rich in old Tokyo charm that has continued since the Edo period.
What Are Protective Deities?
Protective deities (ujigami) are the gods that safeguard the people living in a particular area. In Japan’s traditional faith, the protective deity of one’s birthplace is believed to watch over that person throughout their lifetime. In the broad area stretching from Mukojima to Ryogoku in Sumida Ward, Ushijima Shrine is revered as the chief protective deity. For some areas in Mukojima 4-chome, Akiba Shrine serves as the local protective deity.
In other words, the guardian deities of Mukojima, where Kanao Tsuyuri was born and raised, are Ushijima Shrine or Akiba Shrine, making them important elements that connect the character to these shrines.
The History and Origins of Ushijima Shrine
From Founding to the Heian Period
Ushijima Shrine’s founding dates back to the early Heian period. According to shrine records, it was founded in 860 (Jogan 2) when Jikaku Daishi Ennin received an oracle from an old man who was an incarnation of Susanoo no Mikoto.
Furthermore, in 877 (Gangyei 1), Prince Sadatsugu, the son of Emperor Seiwa, passed away at this location and was enshrined by Ryohon Ajari. Due to this historical background, Ushijima Shrine is known as a historic shrine with deep ties to the imperial family.
Prosperity During the Edo Period and the Shogunate’s Reverence
Upon entering the Edo period, Ushijima Shrine became the chief protective deity of the Honjo and Mukojima areas, gathering the region’s faith. It was particularly revered by the Tokugawa shogunate and considered important as a shrine protecting against evil spirits at the northeast.
The third shogun, Tokugawa Iemitsu, donated land to establish a subsidiary shrine (otabisho) in Honjo Ishihara-cho. This subsidiary shrine still exists today, bearing witness to Ushijima Shrine’s history. Throughout the Edo period, Ushijima Shrine flourished as a shrine revered by both samurai and commoners.
Damage During the Taisho Period and Relocation in the Showa Period
A major turning point in Ushijima Shrine’s history was the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923 (Taisho 12). At that time, Ushijima Shrine was located near the present-day Kofuku-ji Temple (about a 10-minute walk from Ushijima Shrine), where it suffered severe damage from the earthquake.
Subsequently, in 1932 (Showa 7), the shrine was relocated to its current location. With this relocation, the shrine came to be situated at its present position facing the Sumida River, offering a scenic view of Tokyo Skytree. The history of recovery from the Great Kanto Earthquake overlaps with the historical period in which ‘Demon Slayer’ is set (Taisho era), adding deeper poignancy to pilgrimage visits.
Ushijima Shrine Grounds Guide
Main Hall and Principal Deities
The principal deities of Ushijima Shrine are three: Susanoo no Mikoto, Ame no Hohi no Mikoto, and Prince Sadatsugu. Susanoo no Mikoto is known as the god of ward against evil and plague, and many worshippers visit even today.
The current main hall was built during the shrine’s relocation in the Showa period, maintaining traditional shrine architectural style while incorporating modern construction techniques. The shrine grounds are located in a quiet environment along the Sumida River, offering an atmosphere that makes one forget the hustle and bustle of the city.
The Touching Cow and Guardian Lions
The “touching cow” (nadeshigushi) is a notable feature of Ushijima Shrine. In the shrine grounds stands a bronze statue of a cow. There is a belief that if one touches the part of one’s body that is afflicted with illness at the same location on the cow, the disease will be healed. Many worshippers touch this cow to pray for good health.
The guardian lion statues (komainu) are also worth seeing, with historic stone lions dating from the Edo period guarding the approach. Their expressive carved features speak to the high craftsmanship of stonemasons from that era.
The Triple Torii Gate
Among Ushijima Shrine’s distinctive structures is the triple torii gate (mitsuwa-torii). This is an uncommon form of gate consisting of three torii gates combined together, and there are few of these throughout the country, making it a precious cultural heritage. This gate is the same style as the one at Oomiwa Shrine in Nara, and it preserves an important form of faith from ancient times.
Views of the Sumida River and Tokyo Skytree
Ushijima Shrine faces the Sumida River, and from the shrine grounds one can see the flow of the river and the scenery of the opposite bank. Tokyo Skytree is visible up close from this location, offering a unique landscape where tradition and modernity harmonize.
During spring, the cherry blossoms along the Sumida River are beautiful, and many people visit during cherry blossom season. Walking paths are well-maintained, allowing visitors to enjoy a walk along the riverside together with a shrine visit.
Akiba Shrine Overview and Characteristics
The History of Akiba Shrine
Akiba Shrine is revered as the protective deity for certain areas within Mukojima 4-chome. Akiba faith was widely revered during the Edo period as the god of fire prevention, playing an important role in Edo, a town frequently plagued by fires.
According to records of the Tokyo Shrine Association, the Mukojima area in Sumida Ward is primarily under the protection of Ushijima Shrine as the chief shrine, but for some areas in Mukojima 4-chome, Akiba Shrine serves as the protective deity, with the objects of faith divided by area.
Faith as the God of Fire Prevention
The principal deity of Akiba Shrine is Hi no Kagutsuchi no Kami (the god of fire), revered as the deity that rules over fire. During the Edo period, when wooden structures densely crowded the downtown area, fires frequently occurred, and people deepened their faith in the god of fire prevention.
Today, firefighters and people in professions that deal with fire, such as restaurant operators, visit to pray for protection from fires. The shrine is also said to bring benefits for household safety and prosperous business, and is beloved by local residents.
Relationship with Ushijima Shrine
Akiba Shrine and Ushijima Shrine are geographically close and have supported the faith of the Mukojima area together. Visits to both shrines are common, and for Demon Slayer pilgrimage tours, if time permits, it is recommended to visit both.
Goshuin Information and Offerings
Ushijima Shrine’s Goshuin
Ushijima Shrine issues a standard goshuin (shrine stamp). In calligraphy it bears “Ushijima Shrine” and the shrine’s seal in traditional style. The standard donation is typically 300 to 500 yen.
Goshuins are received at the shrine office after worship. During busy times, wait times may occur, so it is recommended to visit with time to spare.
Goshuin Books and Commemorative Items
Ushijima Shrine also issues an original goshuin book (stamp collection book). The design reflects the shrine’s characteristics and is popular as a commemorative item for pilgrimage visits.
Various amulets and wooden prayer tablets (ema) are also available, with amulets for ward against evil and health blessings being particularly popular. Among Demon Slayer fans, many write prayer tablets dedicated to Kanao.
Akiba Shrine’s Goshuin
Akiba Shrine also issues goshuins, but it is recommended to confirm beforehand the shrine office’s operating hours and whether goshuins are issued. As a small shrine, it may not always be staffed.
Access and Visiting Information
How to Reach Ushijima Shrine
By Train
- About 5 minutes walk from “Honjo-Azumabashi Station” on the Toei Asakusa Line
- About 10 minutes walk from “Tokyo Skytree Station” on the Tobu Skytree Line
- About 15 minutes walk from “Asakusa Station” on the Tokyo Metro Ginza Line or Toei Asakusa Line
By Bus
- Get off at the “Ushijima Shrine-mae” bus stop on Toei buses and it’s right there
By Car
- About 5 minutes from the “Mukojima Interchange” on Metropolitan Expressway Route 6
- Parking: Limited space available within the shrine grounds (number of spaces restricted)
How to Reach Akiba Shrine
Akiba Shrine is located in Mukojima 4-chome and is within walking distance of Ushijima Shrine. The nearest stations are “Hikifune Station” or “Higashi-Mukojima Station” on the Tobu Skytree Line, both about a 10-minute walk away.
Visiting Hours and Shrine Office Reception Hours
Ushijima Shrine
- Visiting hours: Grounds freely accessible (24 hours)
- Shrine office reception hours: 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM (hours vary by season)
- Goshuin reception: During shrine office hours
Akiba Shrine
- Visiting hours: Grounds freely accessible
- Shrine office: Not always staffed; advance confirmation recommended
Etiquette and Points to Note When Visiting
Observe basic shrine visiting etiquette. Bow once before passing through the torii gate, purify your hands and mouth at the water purification basin before worshipping. Walk along the sides of the pathway, avoiding the center. At the main hall, perform the proper ritual of two bows, two hand claps, and one final bow.
Photography is generally permitted, but be considerate of the shrine’s interior and other worshippers. When visiting for pilgrimage purposes, remember that shrines are places of faith and conduct yourself with restraint and respect.
Nearby Demon Slayer Pilgrimage Locations
Other Character Birthplaces in Tokyo
Beyond Ushijima Shrine and Akiba Shrine in Mukojima, Sumida Ward, there are multiple birthplaces of Demon Slayer characters throughout Tokyo.
Shinobu Kocho (Takinogawa, Kita Ward)
- Takinogawa Hachiman Shrine is the protective deity
- Accessible from “Takinogawa-ichome Station” on the Tokyo Toden Arakawa Line
Giyu Tomioka (Nogata, Nakano Ward)
- Hikawa Shrine and Tada Shrine are related shrines
- Near “Nogata Station” on the Seibu Shinjuku Line
Zenitsu Agatsuma (Ushigome, Shinjuku Ward)
- Akagi Shrine is the protective deity
- Accessible from “Kagurazaka Station” on the Tokyo Metro Tozai Line
Kyojuro Rengoku (Sakura-shinmachi, Setagaya Ward)
- Sakura Shrine is a related shrine
- Within walking distance of “Sakura-shinmachi Station” on the Tokyu Denentoshi Line
Efficient Pilgrimage Routes
To efficiently visit Demon Slayer pilgrimage sites throughout Tokyo, it is recommended to group them by area.
Downtown Area (1-Day Course)
- Mukojima, Sumida Ward: Ushijima Shrine and Akiba Shrine (Kanao Tsuyuri)
- Takinogawa, Kita Ward: Takinogawa Hachiman Shrine (Shinobu Kocho)
- Ushigome, Shinjuku Ward: Akagi Shrine (Zenitsu Agatsuma)
Western Area (Half-Day Course)
- Nogata, Nakano Ward: Hikawa Shrine and others (Giyu Tomioka)
- Sakura-shinmachi, Setagaya Ward: Sakura Shrine (Kyojuro Rengoku)
Tourist Attractions in the Mukojima and Honjo Area
There are many other points of interest around Ushijima Shrine.
Kofuku-ji Temple
- An ancient temple near the former site of Ushijima Shrine
- About 10 minutes walk away
Tokyo Skytree
- A world-renowned tourist attraction
- About 15 minutes walk away
Mukojima Hyakkaen Garden
- A traditional garden dating from the Edo period
- Flowers in bloom throughout the seasons
Sumida River Terrace
- A riverside walking path
- Also famous as a cherry blossom viewing spot
The Relationship Between Demon Slayer and Shinto Beliefs
Shinto Elements in the Work
‘Demon Slayer’ features Japan’s traditional beliefs and culture throughout. The protagonist Tanjiro Kamado’s “Hinokami Kagura” (Fire God’s Dance) is derived from Shinto ritual dance, and the “Breathing” techniques used by Demon Slayer Corps swordsmen connect to ancient Japanese spirituality.
Character birthplace settings also use real place names from the Taisho period, and visiting the local protective deity of these places allows for a deeper understanding of the story world.
The Significance of Pilgrimage Visits
Pilgrimage visits are not merely tourism but an expression of love for a work. By actually visiting the land where Kanao Tsuyuri was born and raised and worshipping at its protective deity shrine, one’s understanding of the character deepens and new connections with the work are formed.
Furthermore, through shrine worship one can touch upon Japan’s traditional culture and history, and gain a more tangible sense of the Taisho era atmosphere depicted in ‘Demon Slayer.’
Fan Community and Prayer Tablet Culture
At shrines that have become pilgrimage sites for Demon Slayer, one can see wooden prayer tablets (ema) dedicated by fans. Tablets featuring Kanao illustrations and messages create a sense of connection with fellow admirers of the work.
When dedicating prayer tablets, follow the shrine’s rules and be considerate of other worshippers. If drawing illustrations, do so with content befitting a sacred place.
Attractions and Events by Season
Spring (March–May)
In spring, the cherry blossoms along the Sumida River near Ushijima Shrine are spectacular. Visiting together with the Sumida Park cherry blossom festival allows one to enjoy both flower viewing and pilgrimage simultaneously. In April, the Spring Grand Festival is held with sacred music and dedication ceremonies.
The Mukojima Hyakkaen Garden is also beautiful in spring, with peonies and wisteria blooming.
Summer (June–August)
In late July, the Sumida River fireworks festival is held, and the area around Ushijima Shrine becomes crowded with people. The day of the fireworks festival is very congested, so it is recommended to plan pilgrimage visits for another day.
Summer shrine visits traditionally take place on June 30 with the Summer Purification ceremony, and the Summer Grand Festival in August are also worth seeing.
Autumn (September–November)
Autumn is ideal weather for sightseeing and walking. While fall foliage is subtle in central Tokyo, the shrine’s trees begin to change color. The Autumn Grand Festival is held in September, allowing visitors to observe traditional Shinto rituals.
Winter (December–February)
New Year’s visits are crowded. From January 1st to the 3rd, congestion is expected, so those wishing a more peaceful visit should come after mid-January. Setsubun festival features bean-throwing ceremonies and other events.
Along the Sumida River in winter the wind is cold, so dress warmly when visiting.
Recommended Food and Cafes After Visiting
Historic Confectionery Shops in Mukojima
The Mukojima area has several long-established confectionery shops continuing from the Edo period.
Kotogoto Dango
- An established shop over 150 years old
- The signature Kotogoto dango is perfect as a souvenir after visiting
Chomeiji Sakuramochi
- Famous as the birthplace of sakura mochi
- Seasonal limited-edition items are also popular
Cafes Around Skytree
Tokyo Skytree Town, within walking distance, has numerous cafes and restaurants. They can be used as resting spots during pilgrimage visits.
Downtown Cuisine
The Honjo and Mukojima area is a treasure trove of downtown cuisine. One can experience food culture continuing from the Taisho era, including monjayaki, loach dishes, and Edomae sushi.
Practical Guide to Visiting Ushijima Shrine and Akiba Shrine
First-Time Pilgrimage Checklist
Things to Bring
- Goshuin book (if collecting shrine stamps)
- Camera or smartphone
- Coins (for offerings and goshuin fees)
- Maps app (on phone)
- Drinks
- Comfortable walking shoes
Advance Preparation
- Confirm shrine opening and shrine office hours
- Research access methods
- Check weather forecast
- Gather information on nearby tourist attractions
Estimated Time Required
Ushijima Shrine Only
- Worship only: 20–30 minutes
- Including goshuin reception: 40–60 minutes
- Including vicinity exploration: 1.5–2 hours
Ushijima Shrine + Akiba Shrine
- Both shrines visit: 1.5–2 hours
- Including goshuin and area exploration: 3–4 hours
Photography Tips
Recommended Photography Spots
- Front of main hall (when no worshippers are present)
- Triple torii gate
- Touching cow
- Shrine grounds with Sumida River and Skytree in background
- Close-up of guardian lions
Photography Etiquette
- Be mindful not to include other worshippers in photos
- Photography inside the main hall is generally prohibited
- Avoid using flash
- Be careful about location information when posting to social media
Conclusion
Ushijima Shrine and Akiba Shrine, located in Mukojima, Sumida Ward, Tokyo, have become pilgrimage destinations visited by many fans as the protective deities of Kanao Tsuyuri’s birthplace from ‘Demon Slayer.’
Ushijima Shrine is a historic shrine founded in the Heian period, and after suffering damage in the Great Kanto Earthquake, it was relocated to its current location, a history that overlaps with the Taisho-era setting of the work. The shrine grounds offer many points of interest, including the triple torii gate, the touching cow, and scenic views along the Sumida River.
Akiba Shrine serves as the protective deity for portions of Mukojima 4-chome and is revered as the god of fire prevention. Visiting both shrines allows one to more deeply understand the faith and history of the land where Kanao was born and raised.
Goshuins are issued, and many fans record their visits in goshuin books as keepsakes of their pilgrimage. Access is convenient from central Tokyo, and the area is rich in tourist attractions including Tokyo Skytree and the Mukojima Hyakkaen Garden.
Through pilgrimage visits, one gains deeper understanding of the work while encountering Japan’s traditional culture and Shinto beliefs—a precious opportunity. Why not plan a fulfilling pilgrimage tour in combination with other Demon Slayer pilgrimage sites in the Kanto region?
When visiting, observe shrine etiquette and be considerate of other worshippers, conducting yourself with restraint. A special experience awaits in the land where Kanao Tsuyuri was born and raised, where you can feel the world of the work more deeply.
