Only Yesterday and Yamagata Prefecture: Complete Pilgrimage Guide
The 1991 Studio Ghibli film “Only Yesterday” tells the story of 27-year-old office worker Taeko Okajima, who travels from Tokyo to Yamagata and, through life in a rural village, comes to terms with herself. The beautiful Yamagata landscape depicted in this work left a deep impression on many viewers’ hearts. In this article, we introduce in detail the charm of Yamagata Prefecture, where the film is set, its filming locations, and practical information for pilgrimage tours.
The Relationship Between Only Yesterday and Yamagata Prefecture
The Film’s Setting
In the contemporary section of “Only Yesterday” (set in 1982), the protagonist Taeko visits Yamagata Prefecture for a ten-day vacation at the home of her sister’s brother-in-law. While the film does not explicitly mention specific place names, multiple regions within Yamagata Prefecture serve as models, with the scenery of the Okitama region (Okitama-hōhō) particularly prominent.
Director Isao Takahata conducted meticulous research in Yamagata Prefecture during production of this work. Rural landscapes, safflower fields, hot spring towns and other scenes are carefully depicted, beautifully expressing both the beauty and harshness of Japan’s agricultural villages.
Why Yamagata Was Chosen
The original manga by Kaoru Okamoto and Yūko Tone did not specify a particular setting. Director Takahata’s choice of Yamagata involved the following elements:
- History of safflower cultivation: Yamagata’s safflower culture continuing from the Edo period
- Beautiful rural landscapes: The scenic outlook of the Okitama Basin displaying four seasons
- Hot spring culture: Rich hot spring resources including Zao Onsen
- Traditional agricultural life: A region preserving Japan’s original landscape
At the time of the film’s release, Yamagata Prefecture retained the Japanese rural landscape that was already disappearing elsewhere.
Filming Locations in Yamagata Prefecture Featured in the Film
Takahata Town (Takahatamachi): Main Filming Location
Located in southern Yamagata Prefecture, Takahata Town is known as a principal filming location for “Only Yesterday.” This town, spread across the Okitama Basin, is the very image of the rural landscape depicted in the film.
Points of Interest in Takahata Town
Mahoroba no Sato
Houses a Takahata Town tourist information center where you can obtain information related to Only Yesterday. The surrounding area features rural landscapes reminiscent of the film.
Kameoka Monju Hall
A historic temple known as one of Japan’s three Monju halls. Though not directly featured in the film, it is worth visiting as a historical site in Takahata Town.
Takahata Winery
A facility where you can experience Yamagata’s wine culture. Though developed after the film’s time period, it allows visitors to appreciate the modern charm of Takahata Town.
Zao Onsen: Model for Hot Spring Scenes
The hot spring scenes that Taeko visits in the film are believed to be modeled on Zao Onsen in Yamagata City. This hot spring, with a history spanning 1,900 years since its opening, is known for its strongly acidic sulfur springs.
Characteristics of Zao Onsen
- Spring quality: Strongly acidic sulfur spring (pH around 1.6)
- Benefits: Skin conditions, neuralgia, fatigue recovery, etc.
- Public baths: Three public baths where you can experience the film’s atmosphere
- Large open-air bath: An expansive outdoor bath in natural surroundings
It retains much of the old-fashioned hot spring atmosphere depicted in the film, making it an essential spot for pilgrimage visitors.
Safflower Fields: Symbolic Scenes of the Film
The safflower picking scene impressively depicted at the film’s climax. Yamagata Prefecture flourished as a major safflower production center from the Edo period, becoming known nationwide as “Mogami Safflower.”
Places to See Safflower
Kahoku Town (Kahokucho)
The region most actively engaged in safflower cultivation in Yamagata Prefecture. The “Safflower Festival” is held every July, where you can see vast fields of safflower.
Takase District, Yamagata City
A spot where you can view safflower close to the city center.
Shirataka Town
Known as a safflower cultivation area in the Okitama region.
The safflower blooming season is early to mid-July. The flowers, which transition from brilliant yellow to orange, embody the film’s world itself.
Rural Landscapes: Throughout the Okitama Basin
The beautiful rural landscapes depicted in the film are modeled on the entire Okitama Basin. The following areas in particular retain the film’s atmosphere:
- Nanyo City: Scenery with vineyards and rice paddies
- Yonezawa City: Landscape of mountains surrounding the basin and paddy fields
- Kawanishi Town: Peaceful rural scenery
There is beauty in all seasons: spring rice planting, summer green rice paddies, autumn’s golden rice stalks, and winter snow-covered landscapes.
Access to Yamagata Prefecture
From Tokyo to Yamagata: Yamagata Shinkansen
The train that Taeko boards in the film is the Yamagata Shinkansen. Since it opened in 1992 (the year after the film’s release), it did not actually exist during the film’s time period (1982), but it is now the most convenient way to access the region.
Details of Yamagata Shinkansen
- Tokyo Station to Yamagata Station: Approximately 2 hours 40 minutes
- Fare: Reserved ordinary class approximately 11,000 yen one way
- Service frequency: Approximately 10 trains per day
You can begin your journey to Yamagata like Taeko, leisurely enjoying the scenery from the train window.
Access to Takahata Town
By Train
- Get off at “Takahata Station” on the Yamagata Shinkansen (approximately 2 hours 20 minutes from Tokyo)
- Rental cars and taxis are convenient for traveling within the town from the station
By Car
- From “Takahata IC” on the Tohoku Central Expressway to various locations in town
- Approximately 4 hours from Tokyo
Access to Zao Onsen
By Bus
- Zao Onsen bus from Yamagata Station takes approximately 40 minutes
- Fare: Approximately 1,000 yen one way
- Service frequency: 1-2 buses per hour
By Car
- Approximately 30 minutes from “Yamagata Zao IC” on the Yamagata Expressway
Experiences in Yamagata Prefecture: Recreating the Film’s World
Safflower Picking Experience
You can actually experience the memorable scene from the film through a safflower picking experience.
Details of Safflower Picking Experience
- Season: Early to mid-July (varies by year)
- Locations: Kahoku Town, Shirataka Town, etc.
- Activities: Early morning safflower picking, safflower dyeing experiences, etc.
- Fee: Approximately 1,000-2,000 yen (varies by facility)
As Taeko experiences in the film, picking the thorny safflower one by one in the early morning while dew still remains allows you to simultaneously feel the difficulty and beauty of agricultural work.
Overnight Stays at Farm Inns
For those wishing to experience rural life as depicted in the film, farm inns are recommended.
Appeal of Farm Inns
- Local ingredients: Fresh vegetables, fruits, and Yamagata beef
- Farm work experiences: Participation in seasonal agricultural activities
- Community interaction: Warm exchanges with local people
- Pricing: Approximately 7,000-10,000 yen per person for one night with two meals
The Okitama region has multiple farm inns where you can experience rural living as shown in the film for a short period.
Hot Spring Tours
Yamagata Prefecture is known as a “hot spring kingdom” with over 100 hot spring locations throughout the prefecture.
Recommended Hot Springs
Zao Onsen
The model location for the film. Known as a “beauty bath” for its strongly acidic sulfur springs.
Onogawa Onsen
A quiet hot spring in Yonezawa City. Also famous for firefly viewing.
Akayutsu Onsen
A historic hot spring in Nanyo City. Some facilities offer wine baths.
Enjoying Yamagata Cuisine
Experience Yamagata’s food culture, which also appears in the film.
Must-Try Yamagata Cuisine
Imoni
An autumn tradition in Yamagata. A regional dish of taro and beef stewed in soy sauce base.
Cherries
Yamagata accounts for approximately 70% of national cherry production. The season is June-July.
Cold Ramen
A summer specialty originating in Yamagata. Unique ramen with cold broth and ice.
Tama Konnyaku
Round konnyaku stewed in soy sauce. A classic snack at hot spring areas and tourist sites.
Dadacha Beans
A specialty of Tsuruoka City. Edamame with distinctive sweetness and aroma.
Only Yesterday Pilgrimage Model Courses
One Night / Two Day Course
Day 1
- 9:00 Depart Tokyo Station on Yamagata Shinkansen
- 11:30 Arrive at Takahata Station
- 12:00 Lunch in Takahata Town (local soba noodles, etc.)
- 13:00 Explore Mahoroba no Sato area
- 14:30 Drive through rural landscapes
- 16:00 Head to Zao Onsen
- 17:00 Check in at Zao Onsen
- 18:00 Experience hot spring at public bath
- 19:00 Dinner at inn
Day 2
- 7:00 Morning hot spring bath
- 8:00 Breakfast
- 10:00 Depart Zao Onsen
- 11:00 Yamagata City sightseeing (Bunshōkan, etc.)
- 12:30 Lunch near Yamagata Station
- 14:00 Depart Yamagata Station on Yamagata Shinkansen
- 16:30 Arrive Tokyo Station
Three Night / Four Day Course During Safflower Season (July Only)
Day 1
- Travel from Tokyo to Takahata Town
- Sightseeing in Takahata Town
- Stay at farm inn
Day 2
- Early morning safflower picking experience (Kahoku Town)
- Afternoon safflower dyeing experience
- Travel to Zao Onsen and stay overnight
Day 3
- Explore Zao Onsen
- Sightseeing in Yamagata City
- Return to Tokyo
Best Seasons to Visit
Spring (April-May)
- Appeal: Cherry blossoms, mountain vegetables, rice planting preparation
- Temperature: 10°C-20°C
- Events: Uesugi Festival (Yonezawa City, May)
Summer (June-August)
- Appeal: Cherry picking, safflowers, green rice paddies
- Temperature: 20°C-30°C
- Events: Safflower Festival (Kahoku Town, July), Hanagasa Festival (Yamagata City, August)
- Recommendation: ★★★★★ (Safflower season is particularly unmissable)
Autumn (September-November)
- Appeal: Rice harvesting, golden rice paddies, grapes and La France pears
- Temperature: 10°C-25°C
- Events: Japan’s Largest Imoni Festival (Yamagata City, September)
- Recommendation: ★★★★★ (Most similar to the film’s atmosphere)
Winter (December-March)
- Appeal: Snow scenery, skiing, winter hot springs
- Temperature: -5°C to 5°C
- Note: Heavy snowfall requires winter tires for vehicles
The Charm of Yamagata Prefecture: Beyond the Film
History and Culture
Yamagata Prefecture brings together regions with unique histories: Yonezawa, which flourished as the castle town of the Uesugi clan; Yamagata, the base of the Mogami clan; Tsuruoka, seat of the Shōnai domain; and others.
Dewa Sanzan Faith
The three mountains of Haguro, Gassan, and Yudono have long been known as sacred sites of mountain faith.
Safflower Culture
During the Edo period, Yamagata flourished through safflower trade with Kyoto and Osaka, earning renown such that “Sakai in the West, Yamagata in the East.”
Nature Through the Seasons
The beautiful nature depicted in the film spreads throughout all of Yamagata Prefecture.
- Zao Ice Trees: Winter spectacle (January-February)
- Alpine Plants on Gassan: Summer climbing season
- Mogami River Boat Tours: Enjoyable through all seasons
- Yamadera (Risshakuji): Sacred temple connected to Matsuo Bashō
Fruit Kingdom
Beyond cherries, Yamagata is a treasure trove of fruits including La France pears, grapes, and apples. Fruit picking is available at various locations.
Manners for Pilgrimage Visits
Etiquette and Courtesy
Most filming locations are places where people actually live. Please observe the following:
- Do not trespass on private property
- Do not touch or remove agricultural crops
- Always take trash with you
- Avoid loud noise
- Greet local residents politely
Photography
- Obtain permission before taking photos that could identify private homes or individuals
- Consider location privacy when posting to social media
- Drone photography often requires prior permission
Contributing to the Community
Pilgrimage tours can also contribute to the local economy:
- Patronize local shops and restaurants
- Purchase local specialties
- Choose local inns and farm inns for accommodation
Messages Conveyed by Only Yesterday
Urban and Rural Life
The film contrasts urban life with agricultural living, showing that neither is better or worse, but that each holds value. What Taeko found in Yamagata was her forgotten self and the essence of living.
The Importance of Agriculture
The safflower picking scene simultaneously expresses the difficulty and beauty of agricultural work. It depicts the labor and pride of those who produce food, which we in modern times rarely consider.
Life Choices
At age 27, Taeko reflects on her life choices. More than 30 years after the film’s release, this theme continues to resonate with many people.
Yamagata Prefecture Facilities Related to Only Yesterday
Takahata Town Tourist Information Center
You can obtain information about the film and receive guidance about tourist sites in town.
- Address: Yamagata Prefecture Higashiokitama District Takahata Town Takahata
- Operating Hours: 9:00-17:00
- Closed: Year-end and New Year holidays
Yamagata Prefecture Tourism and Products Hall (Gutto Yamagata)
A tourism information center near Yamagata Station. Tourism information about the entire prefecture is available.
- Address: Yamagata City Omote Zao 68
- Operating Hours: 9:00-18:00
- Feature: Prefectural specialties gathered in one place
How to Choose Accommodations
Hot Spring Inns
At hot spring area inns such as Zao Onsen and Akayutsu Onsen, you can experience the film’s atmosphere.
- Budget: 10,000-30,000 yen per person for one night with two meals
- Recommendation: Traditional wooden inns
Farm Inns
For those prioritizing interaction with local people, farm inns are recommended.
- Budget: 7,000-10,000 yen per person for one night with two meals
- Feature: Homey atmosphere, local cuisine
Business Hotels
Many business hotels near Yamagata Station serve as convenient tourism bases.
- Budget: 5,000-8,000 yen without meals
- Advantage: Good access, cost-effectiveness
Ways to More Deeply Enjoy the Film
Advance Viewing Preparation
It is recommended to rewatch the film before visiting Yamagata. You will more deeply understand the carefully depicted scenery and characters’ emotions.
Reading the Original Manga
The original manga by Kaoru Okamoto and Yūko Tone focuses on Taeko’s elementary school days and has different appeal from the film.
Related Publications
Books containing interviews with Director Takahata and production stories have been published, deepening understanding of the film.
Other Tourist Spots in Yamagata Prefecture
Spots worth visiting alongside pilgrimage tours:
Yamadera (Risshakuji Temple)
A famous temple where Matsuo Bashō composed “Stillness—/ the voice of crickets/ seeps into the rocks.” After climbing 1,015 stone steps, spectacular views unfold.
Ginzan Onsen
A hot spring town brimming with Taisho-era romanticism. The night streetscape illuminated by gas lamps is ethereal.
Tsuruoka City
The gateway to Dewa Sanzan. Many attractions include the Chidō Museum and Kamo Aquarium (famous for jellyfish exhibits).
Yonezawa City
A castle town with connections to the Uesugi clan. Culinary delights include Yonezawa beef and Yonezawa ramen.
Detailed Transportation Methods
Rental Cars
Renting a car is convenient for freely moving around Yamagata Prefecture.
- Rental Locations: Yamagata Station, Yamagata Airport, Takahata Station, etc.
- Pricing: 24 hours 5,000-8,000 yen (depending on vehicle type)
- Note: Winter driving experience on snowy roads is necessary in winter
Bus Routes
Route buses serve major tourist sites, though service frequency is limited.
Sightseeing Taxis
For efficiently visiting multiple sites, sightseeing taxis are one option.
- Pricing: 3 hours approximately 15,000-20,000 yen
- Advantage: Drivers also serve as tour guides
Yamagata’s Climate and Dress
Climate Characteristics
Yamagata Prefecture has an inland continental climate typical of basins, with hot summers and harsh winters.
- Summer: Temperatures often exceed 30°C. Strong sunlight.
- Winter: Below freezing possible. Heavy snowfall in mountainous areas.
- Spring/Autumn: Large temperature differences.
Seasonal Dress Recommendations
Spring/Autumn
Bring layers for cool mornings and evenings.
Summer
Sun protection, hat, and insect repellent essential.
Winter
Heavy coat, gloves, hat, and non-slip shoes necessary.
Interaction with Local Residents
One charm of Yamagata is its warm-hearted people. Conversations with locals may reveal Yamagata’s appeal not depicted in the film.
Dialect
Yamagata dialect is distinctive, initially difficult to comprehend, but warm in tone.
- “Nda”: Yes, that’s right
- “Nme”: Delicious
- “Keppare”: Do your best
Conclusion: Only Yesterday and Your Journey to Yamagata
“Only Yesterday” is not merely an animated film. It is a work that contemplates Japan’s original landscape, disappearing rural culture, and life choices. Visiting Yamagata Prefecture, where the story is set, is not only recreating the film’s world but also an opportunity to examine ourselves as we live today.
Beautiful rural landscapes, warm hot springs, delicious food, and above all, warm-hearted people. Yamagata Prefecture still preserves the “precious things” the film sought to convey.
A two-and-a-half-hour shinkansen ride from Tokyo. Why not embark on a journey to Yamagata like Taeko, taking advantage of a weekend? Surely you will discover your own unique “only yesterday.”
Whether you visit in July when safflowers bloom, autumn when rice stalks turn golden, or in snowy winter, Yamagata welcomes you warmly. If the film moved your heart, please visit the place itself and feel its charm with your own eyes and skin.
Your experience in Yamagata Prefecture will surely become one of the precious “memories” in your life.
