【Studio Ghibli】Howl’s Moving Castle – Colmar, France
The Deep Connection Between Colmar and Howl’s Moving Castle
The City Visited by Director Hayao Miyazaki
Colmar, located in the Alsace region of eastern France, has garnered worldwide attention from Studio Ghibli fans as the city where location scouting for the masterpiece “Howl’s Moving Castle” took place. In December 2001, Director Hayao Miyazaki visited this beautiful medieval town when he participated in a Ghibli film event held in Paris.
Despite being a small city with a population of approximately 70,000, Colmar is a special place where centuries of history and culture are condensed. Located near the German border, it possesses a unique atmosphere where French and German cultures have merged, and it is said that its landscape greatly stimulated Director Miyazaki’s creativity.
The Film’s World Born from Location Scouting
In producing “Howl’s Moving Castle,” Studio Ghibli’s staff members observed the streets of Colmar in detail, conducted photography, and gathered reference materials. The urban landscapes featured in the film, particularly the medieval European atmosphere created by timber-framed buildings lining the streets, drew major inspiration from Colmar’s actual scenery.
The cobblestone paths that Sophie walks through in the film, the streets lined with colorful buildings, and most strikingly, the buildings with triangular roofs correspond remarkably with actual landscapes in Colmar. The French Tourism Board has officially acknowledged it as “the model,” and it has now become a sacred site visited by many Ghibli fans, primarily Japanese tourists.
The Geography and Historical Background of Colmar
The Jewel of Alsace
Colmar is located in Alsace, the easternmost region of France, in a strategic location near the borders with Germany and Switzerland. This geographical characteristic has greatly influenced the city’s culture and architectural style. Located approximately 70 kilometers southwest of Strasbourg, the central city of Alsace, the two cities are connected by rail in about 30 minutes.
The Alsace region borders Germany across the Rhine River, and historically, its affiliation between France and Germany changed numerous times. This complex history formed a unique cultural identity, creating a fascinating region where French and German elements intermingle in every aspect, from architecture to language to cuisine.
The City’s History Continuing from the Middle Ages
Colmar’s history dates back to the 9th century. In the Middle Ages, it flourished as an imperial free city and developed as a center of commerce. Many timber-framed buildings constructed between the 13th and 17th centuries still remain today, becoming the city’s greatest charm.
Particularly during the Renaissance in the 16th century, wealthy merchants who had profited from silver mines and the textile industry constructed luxurious mansions. These buildings were decorated in meticulous detail, conveying the high level of craftsmanship of that era to the present day. Having miraculously escaped the ravages of World War II, the medieval streetscape has been preserved in nearly complete form, earning the city the nickname “living museum.”
Maison Pfister: A Must-See Sacred Site for Howl Fans
The Actual Model of a Building Appearing in the Film
The most important pilgrimage site for “Howl’s Moving Castle” fans is the “Maison Pfister (Pfister House).” This building, constructed in 1537, is a Renaissance-style mansion built by Louis Schérer, a hat manufacturer. It was constructed by a merchant from Besançon who had become wealthy from the Liévrette Valley silver mines as a building symbolizing his wealth.
The greatest characteristic of Maison Pfister is the beautiful fresco paintings on the second floor and the octagonal tower-like bay window installed at the corner. The walls are decorated with exquisite murals depicting figures from the Old and New Testaments and emperors of the Holy Roman Empire, testifying to the high artistry of the 16th century.
Comparison with Scenes from the Film
In the opening scene of “Howl’s Moving Castle,” when Howl and Sophie take an aerial stroll, the building that appears is Maison Pfister. The characteristics of the building depicted in the film—the triangular roof, the shape of the bay window, and the decorative patterns on the walls—correspond remarkably with Maison Pfister.
For fans who have watched the film multiple times, the moment they see Maison Pfister in person will be one of awe and amazement, exclaiming “This is exactly the building!” It is clear that Director Miyazaki and the Studio Ghibli staff observed this building in detail and faithfully incorporated it into the film. Nowadays, it is common to see Japanese tourists taking commemorative photographs in front of this building.
Access to Maison Pfister and Photography Spots
Maison Pfister is located nearly in the center of Colmar’s old town, on Rue des Marchands (Merchants’ Street). It is approximately a 15-minute walk from Colmar Station and about 5 minutes on foot from Unterlinden Square, the center of the old town.
The best photography spot is from a position slightly apart from the building’s front. By changing angles, you can capture the octagonal bay window and fresco paintings on the walls more beautifully. The morning hours when soft light illuminates the building are particularly recommended. Since the building is privately owned, internal viewing is not permitted, but enjoying its exterior is worthwhile on its own.
The Charming Streetscape of Colmar’s Old Town
The Medieval Landscape Created by Timber-Framed Houses
The greatest charm of Colmar is undoubtedly the medieval timber-framed (colombage) architecture streetscape continuing from the Middle Ages. The sight of colorfully painted timber-framed houses standing side by side gives the sensation of having wandered into a fairy tale world.
Timber-framed architecture is a building style that developed in the Alsace region between the 15th and 17th centuries. It is characterized by exposed wooden frames with the spaces between filled with plaster and brick, with different patterns of timber framing according to each era. In Colmar, these buildings are preserved in excellent condition, forming a streetscape like a textbook of architectural history.
The Beautiful Houses Painted in Pastel Colors
What particularly impresses about Colmar’s buildings are their pastel-colored exterior walls. Buildings painted in soft hues—pale pink, yellow, blue, green—color the streets, bringing to life the whimsical world depicted in Ghibli works.
These colors are not merely decorative but historically indicated profession and the house owner. For example, butchers’ shops were red, bakeries were yellow, and so on. Currently, strict regulations have been established for building paint to preserve the historical landscape, maintaining the harmony of the entire city.
The Petite Venise District’s Canal Scenery
The most romantic area of Colmar is the district called “Petite Venise (Little Venice).” Timber-framed houses line the Lauch River, and the reflection of the buildings in the canal creates a beautiful landscape.
This district was once inhabited by fishermen, boatmen, and tanners, and buildings facing the water feature small balconies and flower-decorated windowsills. From spring through summer, flowers such as geraniums and petunias color the buildings, creating an even more beautiful sight. You can stroll along the waterside paths or participate in boat tours to view the townscape from the water.
Major Tourist Attractions in Colmar
Unterlinden Museum
A must-see for visitors to Colmar is the Unterlinden Museum (Musée Unterlinden). This art museum, housed in a 13th-century Dominican monastery, contains artworks from the Middle Ages to the present day.
Particularly famous is the “Isenheim Altarpiece” by 16th-century painter Matthias Grünewald. This work is known worldwide as an important religious painting, and art enthusiasts from around the world visit just to see it. Medieval Alsatian sculptures, paintings, and archaeological artifacts are also displayed, allowing for a deep understanding of the region’s culture and history.
Saint-Martin Church
Located at the center of Colmar’s old town, Saint-Martin Church (Collégiale Saint-Martin) is a Gothic-style church constructed between the 13th and 14th centuries. Also called the “Colmar Cathedral,” it serves as a landmark for the city.
Its exterior is characterized by red and green roof tiles, and the interior stained glass is beautiful, making it regarded as a masterpiece of medieval religious architecture. From the high tower, you can enjoy a panoramic view of the old town, taking in the full landscape of the densely packed timber-framed houses. The surrounding area of the church, once a market square, is now a lively area lined with restaurants and cafés.
The Old Customs House (Koïfhus)
The Old Customs House (Koïfhus/Coïfhus), built in 1480, is a historical structure that once functioned as the center of commerce in the Alsace region. It is characterized by multi-colored Burgundian roof tiles and is one of Colmar’s important historical buildings.
The first floor of the building was used for storing and trading merchandise, while important meetings were held on the second floor. It is currently used as an exhibition space, hosting periodic events and exhibitions. The square in front of the building hosts seasonal events, including the Christmas market, bustling with locals and tourists.
The House of Heads (Maison des Têtes)
Built in 1609, the “House of Heads (Maison des Têtes)” is a lavishly decorated Renaissance-style building whose exterior walls are adorned with 106 sculptured faces, from which it takes its name. These sculptures express various human expressions and emotions, demonstrating the high level of sculptural technique of the time.
On the corner of the building stands the “Barrel-maker’s Statue” by French sculptor Bartholdi (creator of the Statue of Liberty). Currently, the first floor operates as a restaurant, where you can enjoy meals in a historical building. You can savor traditional Alsatian cuisine while immersed in a medieval atmosphere, creating a special experience.
Access to Colmar and Practical Tourist Information
Methods of Access from Paris
The most convenient way to reach Colmar from Paris is by TGV (French high-speed rail). Direct trains depart from Paris Est Station (Gare de l’Est) and take approximately 2 hours 30 minutes, or about 3 hours if transferring in Strasbourg.
Prices vary depending on the season and booking timing, but early reservations typically cost around 30 euros per person, with regular prices ranging from 50 to 80 euros. It is recommended to book in advance through the SNCF (French National Railway) official website or app. Alternatively, you can fly from Paris to Strasbourg and then take the train to Colmar.
Day Trips from Strasbourg
Many travelers stay in Strasbourg, the central city of Alsace, and take day trips to Colmar. From Strasbourg to Colmar by TER (regional train) takes about 30 minutes, with fares of approximately 15 euros per person.
It is entirely possible to visit Colmar’s major tourist attractions in a single day, but if you wish to enjoy the city’s atmosphere leisurely, an overnight stay in Colmar is recommended. The sunset and early morning quiet streets particularly possess unparalleled beauty that cannot be experienced on a day trip.
Optimal Times to Visit
Colmar can be visited year-round, with each season offering different charms.
Spring (April–June) sees flowers coloring the city and is one of the most beautiful seasons. Particularly from May to June, geraniums flourish on the balconies and windowsills of buildings, creating a splendid contrast between pastel-colored buildings and flowers. The temperature is also comfortable, making it an ideal period for tourism.
Summer (July–August) is the peak tourism season. With stable weather and long daylight hours, you can enjoy tourism at a leisurely pace. However, tourists are numerous, and hotels and restaurants become crowded. Early reservations are essential.
Autumn (September–November) is the grape harvest season in the Alsace region. Harvest festivals are held along the surrounding wine routes, where you can enjoy new wines. The autumn foliage is also beautiful, allowing tourism in a calm atmosphere.
Winter (December–February) is especially recommended during the Christmas season. Colmar’s Christmas market boasts one of the largest and most beautiful markets in the Alsace region. The timber-framed streets illuminated by Christmas lights truly evoke a winter fairy tale world.
Time Required for Tourism
Colmar’s old town is relatively compact, with major tourist attractions accessible on foot. Visiting Maison Pfister, Petite Venise, major churches, and squares can be accomplished in 3 to 4 hours.
However, if you plan to thoroughly view museums, relax in cafés, or enjoy shopping, it is recommended to allocate a full day. Additionally, if you plan to visit the surrounding wine routes or nearby villages, a 2 to 3-day stay is ideal.
Alsatian Cuisine and Gourmet Experiences
Traditional Alsatian Cuisine
When visiting Colmar, be sure to taste the traditional cuisine of the Alsace region. You can enjoy unique dishes resulting from the fusion of French and German food cultures.
Choucroute (Sauerkraut) is one of Alsace’s signature dishes. It consists of fermented cabbage (sauerkraut) accompanied by sausage, pork, bacon, and other meats, simmered in white wine. It is hearty and highly recommended during the cold seasons.
Tarte Flambée (Flammkuchen) is a dish of thin pizza dough topped with cream cheese, onions, and bacon, then baked. Known as “Flammkuchen” in Alsatian, it is characterized by a crispy texture and savory flavor.
Baeckeoffe is a dish of lamb, pork, and beef marinated with vegetables in white wine and slow-cooked in an earthenware pot. It received its name from being traditionally cooked using residual heat from a baker’s oven.
The Appeal of Alsatian Wine
The Alsace region is a prominent producer of white wine in France. Colmar is located at the heart of the “Alsatian Wine Route,” with numerous wineries scattered throughout the surrounding area.
The characteristic of Alsatian wine is that the variety name becomes the wine name. Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Muscat, and others each possess distinctive aromas and flavors. Riesling in particular is Alsace’s representative variety, characterized by a fruity and refreshing taste.
Within Colmar city, numerous wine bars and wine shops allow you to enjoy tastings. Additionally, wine tours visiting nearby wineries are popular.
Recommended Restaurants and Cafés
Colmar offers various dining establishments, from restaurants serving traditional Alsatian cuisine to modern bistros.
Restaurants utilizing timber-framed buildings in the old town allow you to enjoy meals in a historical atmosphere. Restaurants in the Petite Venise district are particularly popular, as you can dine on waterside terraces with canal views, creating a romantic ambiance.
Cafés allow you to enjoy traditional Alsatian baked goods such as “Kougelhopf (Gugelhupf)” and tarts alongside coffee or hot chocolate. Afternoon tea time in particular is when locals frequent cafés to relax, offering an unhurried atmosphere to experience.
Attractions Around Colmar
Villages Along the Alsatian Wine Route
Using Colmar as a base, you can visit beautiful villages along the Alsatian Wine Route. These villages also feature well-preserved timber-framed buildings and each possesses unique charm.
Eguisheim is one of the villages selected as “France’s Most Beautiful Villages.” Located approximately 10 minutes by car from Colmar, the village is arranged in concentric circles around a central castle. The colorful timber-framed houses and flower-decorated streets are beautiful, and there are many wine producers in the village.
Riquewihr is a village that has preserved nearly completely the appearance of the 16th century, with a strong medieval atmosphere remaining within its surrounding city walls. Located approximately 15 kilometers north of Colmar, a 20-minute drive away, it has wine shops and souvenir stores lining the streets, making it popular with tourists.
Kaysersberg is known as the birthplace of Albert Schweitzer. Medieval castle ruins tower on a hill overlooking the village. It is characterized by beautiful scenery where a stone bridge and timber-framed houses harmonize.
Combined Sightseeing with Strasbourg
Strasbourg, the capital of the Alsace region, is worth visiting in combination with Colmar. While an international city hosting the European Parliament, its old town “Grand-Rue” is registered as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and contains numerous historical structures.
Strasbourg Cathedral is regarded as a masterpiece of Gothic architecture, with intricate sculptures and beautiful stained glass as highlights. The district called “Petite France” features timber-framed houses lining the canals, possessing a different charm from Colmar.
Strasbourg’s Christmas market, France’s oldest and largest, draws visitors from around the world in December. By visiting both Colmar and Strasbourg’s Christmas markets, you can fully enjoy the Alsatian Christmas atmosphere.
The Cultural Connection Between Colmar and Ghibli Works
Director Hayao Miyazaki’s Interest in Europe
Director Hayao Miyazaki has maintained a deep interest in European culture and architecture for many years. In works such as “Porco Rosso,” set along Italy’s Adriatic coast, and “Kiki’s Delivery Service,” which draws inspiration from Gothenburg in Sweden and Dubrovnik in Croatia, he has created numerous works inspired by actual places.
In “Howl’s Moving Castle,” importance was placed on faithfully recreating the atmosphere of a medieval European city. Colmar was selected as the perfect location for this purpose. The timber-framed architecture, cobblestone streets, canal-side scenery, and other elements of medieval Europe concentrated in Colmar’s streetscape played an important role in shaping the film’s world.
Ghibli Fans’ Sacred Pilgrimages
Since the release of “Howl’s Moving Castle,” Colmar has become an important sacred site for Japanese Ghibli fans. It is common to see Japanese tourists photographing Maison Pfister from the same angle as scenes in the film.
The local Colmar city and tourism board welcome this interest from Japan, and the tourist information office provides Japanese-language pamphlets. Additionally, some hotels and restaurants offer services catering to Japanese tourists.
For Ghibli fans, visiting Colmar is not merely tourism but a special experience of actually stepping into the world of a beloved work. The emotion of realizing that the landscapes seen in the film actually exist, and their beauty, leaves a profound impression on many visitors.
Connection to Beauty and the Beast
Interestingly, Colmar is also known as one of the possible models for the setting of the Disney film “Beauty and the Beast.” Disney animators are said to have visited this city and used it as reference for film production.
In this way, Colmar has become a place of special significance for anime fans as a city that has inspired multiple animated works. The unique atmosphere where French and German cultures merge, and the fairy-tale-like beautiful streetscape continue to stimulate creators’ imaginations.
Practical Advice for Colmar Tourism
How to Choose Accommodation
Colmar offers various types of accommodations. Hotels in timber-framed buildings of the old town, renovated to modern standards, allow you to stay in a historical atmosphere. These hotels are themselves tourist attractions, making them ideal for travelers seeking a special experience.
Modern hotel chains are also available near the station and in the new town, offering comfortable stays at relatively reasonable prices. Additionally, vacation rentals and guesthouses have increased, making them suitable for those wishing to interact with locals.
Accommodations, particularly during the Christmas season and summer high season, book up quickly, making reservations several months in advance recommended. Staying in the old town allows you to enjoy the nighttime illuminated streetscape and explore the quiet town early in the morning.
Efficient Tourism Route
While Colmar’s old town is small enough to tour on foot, there are recommended routes for efficient sightseeing.
First, head to Unterlinden Square, the center of the old town, from Colmar Station or your hotel. After viewing the Unterlinden Museum, visit Saint-Martin Church and the Old Customs House. Next, walk down Rue des Marchands to Maison Pfister and take plenty of time for photography.
Subsequently, view the House of Heads and proceed to the Petite Venise district. Stroll along the canal and consider participating in a boat tour. Lunch can be enjoyed at a restaurant in the Petite Venise district with canal views.
In the afternoon, freely explore the old town’s alleyways and visit shops and cafés. In the evening, return to Maison Pfister and major spots to enjoy the scenery under different lighting.
Souvenirs and Shopping
When visiting Colmar, you can purchase souvenirs unique to the Alsace region. Most popular are local wines. At wine shops, you can taste while selecting, and specialists recommend options suited to your preferences.
Traditional “Alsatian pottery” is also a popular souvenir. Characterized by colorful floral patterns, it is practical as dishes and kitchenware. Additionally, plush toys and figurines of storks in traditional Alsatian dress, symbolizing the region, are popular as souvenirs.
Common food souvenirs include foie gras, mustard, gingerbread (pain d’épices), and Kougelhopf molds. Particularly during the Christmas season, seasonal items such as Christmas ornaments and candles are abundantly available.
Language and Cultural Considerations
French is the official language in Colmar, but English is relatively understood due to tourism. However, using basic French greetings (bonjour, merci) creates a positive impression with locals.
The Alsace region has its own dialect called “Alsatian,” still used particularly among the elderly. This language is close to German, with its influence visible in place names and dish names.
In restaurants, following French custom, greet upon being seated, use “s’il vous plaît” (please) when ordering, and say “merci” (thank you) after eating. Tipping is not mandatory, but leaving 5–10% is appreciated if service was excellent.
Conclusion: Experiencing the Ghibli World in Colmar
Colmar in the Alsace region of France holds special significance for Ghibli fans as the city that served as a model for “Howl’s Moving Castle.” Visited by Director Hayao Miyazaki himself and providing inspiration for film production, this town has miraculously preserved its beautiful medieval streetscape, truly making it a “living fairy tale world.”
Maison Pfister and other timber-framed buildings, the houses decorated in pastel colors, and the romantic scenery along the canals all evoke the wonder of realizing that the world seen in the film actually exists. Gourmet experiences unique to the region, including Alsatian cuisine and wine, are also major attractions of the trip.
The ease of access—approximately 2 hours 30 minutes from Paris—is also appealing. By combining visits to Strasbourg and villages along the Alsatian Wine Route, you can enjoy a more fulfilling Alsatian journey.
Whether a fan of “Howl’s Moving Castle” or anyone who loves beautiful streetscapes, Colmar is a special place worth visiting. The experience of feeling immersed in the film’s world and the emotion of standing in that actual place will become a lifetime memory.
On your next trip to France, be sure to visit Colmar and actually experience the Ghibli world. Walking cobblestone streets, viewing timber-framed buildings, and touching Alsatian culture will deepen your understanding and affection for “Howl’s Moving Castle.”
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