【Ikkyu-san】 Kyoto Prefecture, Kyotanabe City
Ikkyu Soujun, known as Ikkyu-san for his “wit and wisdom,” lived as a Zen priest during the Muromachi period and continues to be loved by many people today as a character in a national anime. Throughout Kyoto Prefecture, there are numerous temples associated with Ikkyu-san, and they have become popular pilgrimage sites for history enthusiasts and anime fans.
This article traces the life of Ikkyu-san and provides detailed introductions to major pilgrimage sites throughout Kyoto Prefecture. It comprehensively explains admission fees, access information, and highlights of each temple, so please use it for planning your pilgrimage.
Who is Ikkyu Soujun? Understanding the Historical Ikkyu-san
The Life and Character of Ikkyu-san
Ikkyu Soujun (1394-1481) was a Zen priest of the Rinzai sect, Daitoku-ji school, representing the Muromachi period. His childhood name was Senchikumaru, and he is said to have been of noble birth, possibly descended from Emperor Kommatsu or Ashikaga Yoshimitsu.
At age six, he entered Ankoku-ji in Kyoto and was given the name Shuuken. He later became a disciple of Kennou Soui and underwent strict training under Kasou Soudon. At age twenty-one, there is a famous anecdote that he attained enlightenment after listening to a crow’s cries all night by Lake Biwa.
Zen Master Ikkyu was known for his unconventional behavior, openly eating meat and taking a wife, maintaining a stance critical of established authority. However, he was respected as a highly accomplished priest who had reached profound depths of Zen, spending his final years at Ikkyu-ji until his passing at age eighty-eight.
The Anime “Ikkyu-san” and the Historical Ikkyu Soujun
The television anime “Ikkyu-san,” which aired in the 1970s, was based on “Ikkyu Banashi,” a collection of anecdotes from the Edo period. The anime depicts the young Ikkyu-san training at Ankoku-ji, solving various difficult problems with his wit and wisdom.
The actual Ikkyu Soujun was not only a cute child like in the anime, but as an adult, he lived a bold and free-spirited life. He was also skilled in poetry, calligraphy, and painting, and left behind a poetry collection called “Kyoun-shu,” showing his multifaceted nature as a cultural figure.
Shuu-on-an Ikkyu-ji: The Place of Ikkyu-san’s Final Days
The History and Origins of Ikkyu-ji
Shuu-on-an, commonly known as “Ikkyu-ji,” is a temple of the Rinzai sect, Daitoku-ji school, located in Makino-ri no Uchi, Kyotanabe City, Kyoto Prefecture. Originally called Myoushou-ji, it was founded as a Zen training place by Great Master Ouu during the Shoou years (1288-1293).
Later, the temple had fallen into disrepair due to the fires of the Genkou War, but Zen Master Ikkyu, the sixth dharma successor, restored it in 1456 (Koushou 2). Zen Master Ikkyu named it “Shuu-on-an” to repay the kindness of his teacher Kasou Soudon, and spent his final twenty years there, passing away at age eighty-eight in 1481 (Bunmei 13).
Highlights of Ikkyu-ji
The Abbot’s Residence Garden
The abbot’s residence garden at Ikkyu-ji is a beautiful rock garden designated as a National Scenic Beauty. Composed of white sand and stone arrangements, it expresses the Zen worldview, and visitors can enjoy seasonal landscapes throughout the year. Especially during autumn foliage season, red and yellow-tinted maple trees color the garden, making it a hidden gem away from central Kyoto where visitors can enjoy fall colors in quiet solitude.
Wooden Statue of Zen Master Ikkyu
A life-sized wooden statue said to have been commissioned by Zen Master Ikkyu himself is enshrined in the main hall. This statue is designated as an Important Cultural Property and serves as precious material transmitting the appearance of Zen Master Ikkyu during his lifetime.
Kokyuu-an (Hut of Tiger Hill)
The hermitage where Zen Master Ikkyu actually lived, with his belongings and cherished items on display. It is periodically opened to the public for special viewings, offering a valuable opportunity to directly experience the living space of Ikkyu-san.
Treasure Hall
Zen Master Ikkyu’s calligraphy, paintings, and personal effects are displayed here. This important facility allows visitors to understand the master’s aspect as a cultural figure.
Admission Information
Visiting Hours
- 9:00~17:00 (Treasure Hall 9:30~16:30)
- Open year-round
Admission Fees
- General: ¥500
- High school and middle school students: ¥400
- Elementary school students: ¥250
- Treasure Hall: ¥500 additional
Access
- From JR Gakken Toshi Line “Kyotanabe Station” or Kintetsu Kyoto Line “Shintanabe Station,” take Keihan Bus to “Ikkyu-ji-michi” stop, approximately 7 minutes on foot
- By car: Approximately 5 minutes from “Tanabe-nishi IC” on the Kyo-Nawa Expressway; free parking available
Address
〒610-0341 Kyoto Prefecture, Kyotanabe City, Makino-ri no Uchi 102
Annual Events at Ikkyu-ji
Various events are held throughout the year at Ikkyu-ji. Particularly famous is “Ikkyu-ji Makino Noh,” where Noh theater is performed in the temple grounds each autumn. This is a popular opportunity to enjoy traditional performing arts in a mystical atmosphere.
Additionally, during autumn foliage season, the temple has been selected as a location for the “Indeed, Kyoto!” tourism campaign, attracting many visitors.
Daitoku-ji: The Head Temple of Rinzai Zen that Ikkyu-san Revived
The History of Daitoku-ji and Ikkyu Soujun
Daitoku-ji, located in Murasaki-no, Kita Ward, Kyoto City, is the head temple of the Rinzai sect, Daitoku-ji school. Though founded by Great Master Daitou during the Kamakura period, most of it was destroyed in the Onin War (1467-1477) and fell into ruin.
It was Ikkyu Soujun who revived this ruined Daitoku-ji. At age eighty-one, Zen Master Ikkyu became the chief priest of Daitoku-ji and devoted himself to rebuilding the temple buildings damaged by warfare. With support from wealthy merchants in Sakai and nobility, Daitoku-ji successfully revived and the foundations were laid for the magnificent temple complex that exists today.
Highlights of Daitoku-ji
The Mountain Gate (Kinmou-kaku)
Daitoku-ji’s mountain gate is famous for being donated by Sen no Rikyu, who installed a wooden statue of himself inside. This statue is said to have offended Toyotomi Hideyoshi’s sensibilities and contributed to Rikyu’s forced suicide. A wooden statue of Zen Master Ikkyu is also enshrined on the second floor.
The Dharma Hall
The Dharma Hall, designated as an Important Cultural Property, contains a ceiling painting “Cloud and Dragon” attributed to Kano Motonobu. It is famous as the “Eight-Direction-Watching Dragon,” which appears to be looking down from any viewing angle.
Subsidiary Temple Compounds
Daitoku-ji has over twenty subsidiary temples (tatchuu), each with its own unique appeal.
- Shinjuan: A subsidiary temple founded by Ikkyu Soujun. Though usually closed, during special openings visitors can see items associated with Zen Master Ikkyu and sliding door paintings by contemporary artists. The dry landscape garden “Shichigosan-no-Niwa” (Seven-Five-Three Garden) is also famous.
- Daisen-in: Known as a masterpiece of dry landscape gardening, it is designated as a National Special Scenic Beauty and Historic Site.
- Koutoku-in: Associated with Hosokawa Tadaoki and his wife Gracia, it is popular as a famous autumn foliage site.
Admission Information for Daitoku-ji
Visiting Hours
- Temple grounds open freely (subsidiary temples vary by location)
Admission Fees
- Temple grounds free (subsidiary temples vary, typically ¥400-500)
Access
- City Bus stop “Daitoku-ji-mae,” immediately nearby
- Approximately 35 minutes from Kyoto Station via City Bus lines 205 or 206
Address
〒603-8231 Kyoto Prefecture, Kyoto City, Kita Ward, Murasaki-no Daitoku-ji-cho 53
Ankoku-ji: The Training Ground Featured in the Anime
Ankoku-ji in Ayabe City, Kyoto Prefecture
The “Ankoku-ji” featured in the anime “Ikkyu-san” as the place where Ikkyu-san trained is modeled after Ankoku-ji in Ayabe City, Kyoto Prefecture. This temple is one of the Ankoku-ji temples established nationwide by Ashikaga Takauji, and while it is a different temple from the Ankoku-ji in Kyoto City where Ikkyu Soujun actually spent his childhood, it is known as a pilgrimage site for anime fans.
Highlights of Ankoku-ji
Ankoku-ji in Ayabe is a Zen temple nestled in a quiet mountain village, with beautifully maintained main hall and gardens. It has an atmosphere that overlaps with the image from the anime, making it a special place for Ikkyu-san fans.
Admission Information
- Visiting hours: 9:00~17:00
- Admission fee: Donation
- Access: From JR Ayabe Station by bus or taxi
Address
Ankoku-ji-cho, Ayabe City, Kyoto Prefecture
The Historical Ankoku-ji Where Ikkyu-san Actually Trained
Historically, Ikkyu Soujun entered Ankoku-ji in Kyoto City at age six. This temple no longer exists today, but it is remembered as an important location where we can recall Ikkyu-san’s training years.
Kenninji: A Zen Temple Associated with Ikkyu-san
Kenninji, located in Higashiyama Ward, Kyoto City, is the head temple of the Rinzai sect, Kenninji school, and has connections to Ikkyu Soujun. Zen Master Ikkyu is said to have undergone training at Kenninji as well, and it is known as one of the Five Temples of Kyoto, prestigious Zen temples.
Highlights of Kenninji
- Wind and Thunder God Screens: National Treasure by Tawaraya Sotatsu (a replica is currently on display; the original is on deposit at the Kyoto National Museum)
- Twin Dragon Painting: An impressive dragon painting on the ceiling of the Dharma Hall
- Circle, Triangle, Square Garden: A modern garden expressing the Zen worldview
Admission Information
- Visiting hours: 10:00~17:00 (last entry 16:30)
- Admission fee: General ¥600
- Access: 7 minutes on foot from Keihan “Gojo-Kawaramachi Station,” 10 minutes on foot from Hankyu “Kawaramachi Station”
Address
〒605-0811 Kyoto Prefecture, Kyoto City, Higashiyama Ward, Yamato-oji-dori Shijo-Sagaru, Komatsumachi 584
Model Courses for Ikkyu-san Pilgrimage
1-Day Course: Central Kyoto
Morning
- Daitoku-ji (2 hours): Temple grounds exploration and subsidiary temple viewing
- Kenninji (1.5 hours): Viewing Wind and Thunder God Screens and gardens
Afternoon
- Ikkyu-ji (2 hours): Leisurely visit to the place of Zen Master Ikkyu’s final days
2-Day Course: In-Depth Pilgrimage
Day 1
- Morning: Visit multiple subsidiary temples at Daitoku-ji
- Afternoon: Kenninji and exploration of the surrounding Higashiyama area
Day 2
- Morning: Trace Zen Master Ikkyu’s footsteps at Ikkyu-ji
- Afternoon: Ankoku-ji in Ayabe City (for anime fans)
Seasonal Enjoyment of Pilgrimage Sites
Spring (March~May)
Cherry blossoms at Ikkyu-ji and Daitoku-ji are beautiful during this season. Ikkyu-ji in particular has many cherry blossom trees, and visitors can enjoy flower viewing in a quiet environment. With relatively fewer tourists, this is a good time to pilgrimage at leisure.
Summer (June~August)
Fresh green foliage is beautiful, and the zen temple gardens show their most vibrant appearance. Early morning visits are recommended, allowing visitors to immerse themselves in the zen world amid tranquility.
Autumn (September~November)
Autumn foliage season is the best time for Ikkyu-san pilgrimage. Ikkyu-ji, selected as a location for the “Indeed, Kyoto!” campaign, is a famous autumn foliage spot, with the abbot’s residence garden displaying spectacular colors. The autumn foliage at Daitoku-ji subsidiary temples, particularly Koutoku-in, is also magnificent.
“Ikkyu-ji Makino Noh” is held at Ikkyu-ji, allowing visitors to enjoy the luxury of experiencing both autumn foliage and traditional Noh theater simultaneously.
Winter (December~February)
Snow-covered zen temples have a special charm. With few tourists, this is a season for quiet pilgrimage. Visitors can experience the cold winters during which Zen Master Ikkyu pursued harsh training, and come into contact with the zen spirit.
Trivia to Enrich Your Pilgrimage
Pilgrimage Etiquette
When visiting zen temples, please observe the following etiquette:
- Pray quietly (do not speak loudly)
- Photography only in permitted areas
- Do not touch garden stones or plants
- When removing shoes, place them neatly
- Use silent mode for mobile phones inside buildings
Useful Information
Online Shop
Ikkyu-ji operates an official online shop where items associated with Zen Master Ikkyu and omamori talismans can be purchased. Even those unable to visit due to distance can feel connected to Ikkyu-san.
Special Opening Information
Many of the subsidiary temples at Daitoku-ji are normally closed to the public but are opened for special viewings in spring and autumn. Check the latest information on the Kyoto City Tourism Association website or official temple websites.
Collecting Temple Seals
Each temple associated with Ikkyu-san offers distinctive temple seals (goshuin). Ikkyu-ji offers seals featuring Zen Master Ikkyu, and Daitoku-ji has different seals for each subsidiary temple. It is recommended to bring a seal book (goshuin-chou) as a memento of your pilgrimage.
Nearby Tourist Attractions
Around Ikkyu-ji
Kyotanabe City Tourism
Kyotanabe City, where Ikkyu-ji is located, has other points of interest. The wooden statue of Eleven-Faced Kannon at Kannon-ji (Fugen-ji) (National Treasure) and views from Mount Kannanbi are spots worth visiting in combination with Ikkyu-ji.
Around Daitoku-ji
Kinkaku-ji and Kitano Tenmangu
Combining a visit to Kinkaku-ji (Golden Pavilion) and Kitano Tenmangu (Shrine), relatively close to Daitoku-ji, is also popular. These can be efficiently toured by city bus.
Reference Materials and Books Useful for Ikkyu-san Pilgrimage
The following resources are helpful for enjoying pilgrimage in greater depth:
- “Ikkyu Banashi”: An Edo period anecdote collection, the original source of Ikkyu-san’s wit stories
- “Kyoun-shu”: Poetry collection by Zen Master Ikkyu himself
- Pamphlets issued by Ikkyu-ji: Available at the temple
- Official website of Kyoto City Tourism Association: Latest special opening information
Conclusion: Experience History and Anime Through Ikkyu-san Pilgrimage
Throughout Kyoto Prefecture, numerous temples associated with Ikkyu Soujun are scattered about, making them attractive pilgrimage sites for both history enthusiasts and anime fans.
At Ikkyu-ji, you can trace the footsteps of the master’s final years; at Daitoku-ji, witness his accomplishments in revival; and at Ankoku-ji in Ayabe, experience the anime world. By appreciating each temple’s unique charm and touching Zen Master Ikkyu’s bold yet profound spirituality, you can have an experience that transcends mere sightseeing.
Confirm admission fees and access information in advance, note the highlights for each season, and enjoy a fulfilling pilgrimage journey. By touching the zen worldview behind Ikkyu-san’s “wit and wisdom,” you will surely discover something new and moving.
The Ikkyu-san pilgrimage throughout Kyoto Prefecture is a special journey where Japan’s history and culture intersect with anime culture. Please visit in person and experience the spirit of Zen Master Ikkyu.
