Introduction: The Mysterious Connection Between Spirited Away and Jiufen
“Spirited Away,” the timeless masterpiece from Studio Ghibli released in 2001. With a domestic box office revenue of 31.68 billion yen and winning the Academy Award for Best Animated Feature, this work continues to be loved worldwide.
And the small mountain town that became world-famous as the model for this film’s setting is “Jiufen (Jiǔfèn)” nestled in the mountains of northern Taiwan. The red lantern-lit stone steps, nostalgic townscape, and fantastical atmosphere at dusk perfectly evoke the world of the “bathhouse” that Chihiro wandered into.
This article will comprehensively explain the relationship between Spirited Away and Jiufen from every angle—from official statements to actual similarities to tourism information.
Studio Ghibli’s Official Position: Is Jiufen Really a Model Location?
Studio Ghibli’s Official Comment
In fact, Studio Ghibli has never officially confirmed that Jiufen is a direct model for Spirited Away. There have been no clear statements from director Hayao Miyazaki or production staff indicating that they referenced Jiufen.
The Places Director Hayao Miyazaki Actually Referenced
The places that director Hayao Miyazaki reportedly referenced when creating Spirited Away are primarily the following hot spring destinations and buildings within Japan:
- Dogo Onsen Honkan (Ehime Prefecture): Main reference for the bathhouse’s exterior design
- Meguro Gajoen (Tokyo): Source of inspiration for the lavishly ornate interior
- Edo-Tokyo Museum (Tokyo): Reference for Meiji-era townscapes and architectural styles
- Shibu Onsen (Nagano Prefecture): Influenced the creation of the hot spring town atmosphere
Why Jiufen Became Known as the “Model Location”
There are several factors behind Jiufen becoming globally recognized as the model location for Spirited Away:
- Visual Similarities: Common elements such as red lanterns, stone steps, and wooden buildings
- Taiwan Media Coverage: After the film’s release, Taiwanese media actively reported on Jiufen as the “model location”
- Tourism Promotion: Taiwan’s tourism board internationally promoted Jiufen as “the world of Ghibli”
- Social Media Spread: Visitors posted “It’s like the world of Spirited Away!” and the image became established
While not an official model location, Jiufen’s atmosphere matches the film’s worldview so remarkably that it is loved worldwide by fans as a “spiritual model location” or “one of the sources of inspiration.”
Detailed Comparison of Similarities Between Jiufen and Spirited Away
1. Amei Teahouse (阿妹茶樓) and the Bathhouse
The spot most often said to be “Spirited Away-like” in Jiufen is the Amei Teahouse (Amei Chálou).
Similarities:
- Exterior with connected red lanterns
- Multi-layered wooden structure
- Fantastical lighting from dusk through night
- The angle looking up from stone steps evokes the bathhouse
Particularly, the angle of looking up at Amei Teahouse from Jiufen’s Shuqi Road stone steps overlaps with the scene of Chihiro first seeing the bathhouse. When the red lanterns light up at dusk, this similarity becomes even more striking.
2. Shuqi Road Stone Steps and the Film’s Worldview
Shuqi Road (竪崎路), the main street of Jiufen, features distinctive steep stone steps.
Common Points with the Film:
- Narrow stone steps lined with shops on both sides
- Lighting from lanterns
- Nostalgic atmosphere
- Bustling activity and liveliness of people
Walking up these steps creates a sensation of Chihiro wandering into a mysterious world.
3. The Atmosphere from Dusk Through Night
Jiufen comes closest to the world of Spirited Away during the time from dusk through night.
Characteristics of This Time Period:
- Red lanterns light up all at once
- Contrast between the dusky sky and lantern light
- Fog often rises, adding to the fantastical atmosphere
- The warm light from shops illuminates the street
This recalls scenes in the film such as dusk when Chihiro’s parents turn into pigs, and when the bathhouse begins its evening operations.
4. Retro Townscape and Architectural Style
Jiufen’s buildings retain strong influences from the Japanese colonial period (1895-1945).
Architectural Features:
- Combination of wooden and stone construction
- Narrow alleys and steep stairs
- Unique style blending Japanese and Taiwanese elements
- Retro atmosphere reminiscent of the early Showa period
These perfectly match the worldview of Spirited Away that depicts “a fusion of Showa nostalgia and an alternate world.”
The History of Jiufen: How This Townscape Was Born
Prosperity as a Gold Mining Town
Understanding Jiufen’s history clarifies how this unique townscape came to be.
Jiufen’s Historical Timeline:
- Late Qing Dynasty: A small village of just 9 households (origin of the name “Jiufen”)
- 1893: Rapid development following the discovery of gold veins
- Japanese Colonial Period (1895-1945): Full-scale mining begins under Japanese companies, reaching peak prosperity
- After 1945: Population decline as gold mining declines
- 1989: Gains renewed attention as a filming location for the film “A City of Sadness”
- 2000s: Becomes an international tourist destination due to the influence of Spirited Away
Influence of the Japanese Colonial Period
The presence of Japanese elements in Jiufen’s architecture and townscape is due to the Japanese colonial period.
Legacy of the Japanese Colonial Period:
- Techniques of wooden building construction
- Layout of stone steps and alleys
- Introduction of hot spring culture
- Development of tea culture
These elements form the foundation of creating the current “Spirited Away-like” atmosphere.
Re-evaluation Through the Film “A City of Sadness”
In 1989, director Hou Hsiao-hsien’s film “A City of Sadness” was filmed in Jiufen and won the Golden Lion at the Venice International Film Festival. Following this film, Jiufen was re-evaluated within Taiwan and experienced a revival as a tourist destination.
Getting to Jiufen: Complete Access Guide
Access Methods from Taipei to Jiufen
There are mainly 4 ways to get to Jiufen from Taipei.
1. By Bus (Most Recommended)
From MRT Zhongxiao Fuxing Station:
- Bus Number: 1062 (Keelung Bus)
- Travel Time: About 90 minutes
- Fare: 115 New Taiwan Dollars one way (about 500 yen)
- Frequency: One bus every 15-20 minutes
- Alighting Stop: Jiufen Laojie
Advantages:
- Direct route without transfers
- Frequent service
- Affordable
Disadvantages:
- Often crowded on weekends and holidays, may not get a seat
- Winding mountain roads may cause motion sickness
2. Train + Bus Access
Route:
- From Taipei Station by Taiwan Railways to Ruifang Station (about 40 minutes, 49 New Taiwan Dollars)
- From Ruifang Station by Keelung Bus 788 or 825 to Jiufen (about 15 minutes, 15 New Taiwan Dollars)
Advantages:
- Can definitely get a seat for the train portion
- Can tour around Ruifang Station
Disadvantages:
- Hassle of transferring
- Bus from Ruifang Station may be crowded
3. Taxi (Charter)
Fare Estimate:
- One way from central Taipei: about 1,500-2,000 New Taiwan Dollars (about 7,000-9,000 yen)
- Round trip including waiting time: about 3,000-4,000 New Taiwan Dollars
Advantages:
- Door-to-door comfort
- Flexible timing
- Safe with luggage
Disadvantages:
- Expensive
- Risk of traffic congestion on weekends
4. Local Tour Participation
Fare Estimate: 1,500-3,000 New Taiwan Dollars (varies by tour content)
Advantages:
- Japanese-speaking guides available
- Efficient when combined with other tourist sites
- No transportation worries
Disadvantages:
- Limited free time
- Group travel required
Recommended Length of Stay in Jiufen
Recommended Duration: 3-4 Hours
- If Arriving During the Day: 14:00-18:00 (aiming for dusk)
- If Arriving in the Evening: 16:00-20:00 (enjoying night scenery)
Since dusk through night is when Jiufen is most beautiful, a schedule including this time period is recommended.
Best Season and Periods to Avoid
Best Seasons:
- Spring (March-May): Pleasant weather, beautiful flowers
- Autumn (September-November): Cool and comfortable, clear air
Periods to Avoid:
- Summer (June-August): Extremely hot and humid, typhoon season
- Lunar New Year Period: All of Taiwan is crowded, some shops closed
- Weekend Evenings: Peak tourist crowds
Weather Notes:
Jiufen is also known as “the rainy town,” with rain falling more than 200 days per year. A collapsible umbrella is an essential item.
Must-See Spots in Jiufen: Pilgrimage Guide
1. Amei Teahouse (阿妹茶樓)
Address: No. 20, Shuqi Road, Ruifang District, New Taipei City
This is the spot where you can see the most “Spirited Away-like” scenery in Jiufen.
How to Enjoy:
- Exterior Photography: Best angle is looking up from Shuqi Road’s stone steps
- Tea Experience: Can enjoy Taiwanese tea inside (300 New Taiwan Dollars per person and up)
- Best Photography Time: 17:30-19:00 (dusk when lanterns light up)
Photography Tips:
- Weekday evenings are relatively less crowded
- Shooting from the middle of the stairs captures the whole building
- Vertical composition emphasizes the building’s height
2. Shuqi Road (Stone Steps Street)
Characteristics: Main street of Jiufen featuring steep stone steps
Highlights:
- Tea houses and souvenir shops lining both sides
- Scenery created by steps and lanterns
- Views from various points along the stairs
Recommended Way to Walk:
Slowly climbing from bottom to top while enjoying the views by turning back at intervals.
3. Jishan Street (Old Street)
Characteristics: The busiest commercial street in Jiufen
How to Enjoy:
- Food Tasting: Taro balls, fish ball soup, mugwort cakes, etc.
- Souvenir Hunting: Pineapple cakes, Taiwanese tea, handicrafts, etc.
- Traditional Atmosphere: Retro signage and buildings
4. Shengping Theater (Former Cinema)
Address: No. 33, Shuqi Road, Ruifang District, New Taipei City
Built in 1934, this was Jiufen’s largest movie theater and is now free to visit.
Highlights:
- Showa retro cinema interior
- Period movie posters and materials
- Exhibits about Jiufen’s history
5. Wuhaohao Coal Mine (Gold Mine Remains)
Admission: Free
You can visit the actual mine shafts that were once used. A place where you can truly feel Jiufen’s history.
6. Scenic Viewpoints
Recommended Scenic Spots:
- Upper Shuqi Road: Panoramic view of Jiufen’s townscape and the sea
- Qingbian Road: Spectacular views of Keelung Mountain and coastline
- Tea House Terrace Seating: Enjoy scenery while drinking tea
Jiufen Gourmet: Must-Try Taiwanese Cuisine
1. Taro Balls (芋圓)
The representative specialty of Jiufen.
Recommended Shops:
- Agan Auntie’s Taro Balls: Jiufen’s most famous taro ball shop
- Lai Auntie’s Taro Balls: Popular with locals
Price: 40-60 New Taiwan Dollars
Characteristics: Chewy taro balls topped with warm or cold syrup, small beans, etc.
2. Fish Ball Soup (魚丸湯)
Recommended Shops: Jinzhi Red Fermented Meat Meatballs, Aran Mugwort Cakes
Price: 50-80 New Taiwan Dollars
Characteristics: Warm soup containing fish surimi balls. The gentle flavor soothes a tired body after walking.
3. Mugwort Cake (草仔粿)
Price: 20-30 New Taiwan Dollars
Characteristics: A traditional snack of mugwort-infused mochi filled with red bean paste or dried radish and other ingredients.
4. Peanut Ice Cream Crepe (花生巻冰淇淋)
Price: Around 50 New Taiwan Dollars
Characteristics: A unique dessert wrapping shaved peanut brittle, ice cream, and cilantro in thin crepe.
5. Taiwanese Tea
Jiufen has many teahouses.
Recommended Teahouses:
- Amei Teahouse: Best scenery
- Haiyue Tower Teapot: Peaceful atmosphere
- Jiufen Teapot: Authentic tea art experience
Popular Teas:
- Frozen Peak Oolong Tea
- Oriental Beauty Tea
- Tieguanyin
Price: 300-500 New Taiwan Dollars per person (includes tea snacks)
Practical Advice for Jiufen Tourism
Tips to Avoid Crowds
Less Crowded Times:
- Weekday Mornings (10:00-12:00): Fewer tourists
- Late Weeknights (20:00 Onward): After day-trippers leave
Crowded Times to Avoid:
- Weekend Evenings (16:00-19:00): Most crowded
- Holidays and Long Weekends: Large crowds from within Taiwan
- Lunar New Year Period: Impossibly crowded
Clothing and What to Bring
Clothing Tips:
- Comfortable Walking Shoes: Sneakers or flat shoes essential for numerous steps
- Comfortable Clothing: Lots of climbing stairs
- Something to Layer: Gets cold in the evenings in the mountains
- Rain Gear: Collapsible umbrella or raincoat
Packing Checklist:
- Collapsible umbrella (essential)
- Power bank (for taking many photos)
- Eco bag (for souvenirs)
- Wet wipes (for food tasting)
- New Taiwan Dollar cash (small shops don’t accept cards)
Best Photography Spots and Times
Top 3 Photography Spots:
- Looking up at Amei Teahouse from the middle of Shuqi Road steps
- Best time: 17:30-18:30 (right after lanterns light up)
- Crowd Level: High (arrive early to secure spot)
- Overlooking the townscape from upper Shuqi Road
- Best time: 18:00-19:00 (contrast of dusky sky)
- Crowd Level: Medium
- Jishan Street with connected lanterns
- Best time: 18:30-19:30 (after complete darkness)
- Crowd Level: High
Photography Tips:
- Tripods difficult to use when crowded (use digital image stabilization)
- Use HDR mode to adjust light and shadow contrast
- Quiet early mornings on weekdays also recommended
Safety Precautions
Points to Watch:
- Slippery Stone Steps: Especially slippery when wet, use handrails
- Pickpockets and Theft: Strict valuables management during crowds
- Getting Lost: Complex alleys, utilize smartphone map apps
- Physical Fatigue: Steep stairs tire easily, take regular breaks
Tourist Spots Around Jiufen
Introducing nearby spots to visit along with Jiufen.
1. Shifen
Distance: About 30 minutes by car from Jiufen
Highlights:
- Sky Lantern Release: Experience of releasing giant lanterns with wishes written on them
- Shifen Waterfall: Called Taiwan’s Niagara Falls
- Walking on Active Railroad Tracks: Shopping street alongside active rail lines
Time Required: 2-3 hours
2. Maokong
Distance: In Taipei City, via Taipei from Jiufen
Highlights:
- Cable Car: Panoramic views of Taipei cityscape
- Tea Fields: Taiwanese tea production area
- Teahouses: Authentic Taiwanese tea experience
3. Keelung (基隆)
Distance: About 20 minutes by car from Jiufen
Highlights:
- Keelung Miaokou Night Market: One of Taiwan’s premier gourmet night markets
- Heping Island Park: Spectacular views of strange rocks and sea
- Keelung Harbor: Harbor town atmosphere
4. Jinguashi
Distance: Within walking distance of Jiufen (about 15 minutes)
Highlights:
- Gold Museum: Learn about gold mining history
- Benshan No. 5 Mine Shaft: Experience actual mine shafts
- Golden Waterfall: Waterfall stained golden by minerals
Recommended Route: Jiufen → Jinguashi → Keelung for day-long sightseeing
Recommended Souvenirs from Jiufen
1. Pineapple Cake (鳳梨酥)
Taiwan’s classic souvenir.
Recommended Shops:
- Purchasable at many shops along Jiufen Old Street
- Price: 200-400 New Taiwan Dollars per box
2. Taiwanese Tea
Recommended Types:
- High Mountain Oolong Tea
- Oriental Beauty Tea
- Tieguanyin
Purchase Locations: Teahouses and specialty shops where you can taste before buying
3. Taro Balls (Souvenir Version)
Characteristics: Dried or vacuum-packed versions for bringing back to Japan
4. Traditional Crafts
- Lantern-shaped Keychains and Magnets: Jiufen-style designs
- Ceramic Tea Sets: Tools for enjoying Taiwanese tea
- Wooden Figurines: Cats and lucky motif items
5. Retro Novelties
Recommended Items:
- Showa retro postcards
- Goods themed around movies and Jiufen
- Vintage-style posters and stickers
Cultural Knowledge for Enjoying Jiufen
Taiwanese Tea Culture
Basic knowledge for enjoying Taiwanese tea at Jiufen’s teahouses.
Tea Art Procedure:
- Warming the Pot: Warm the teapot
- Adding Tea: Put tea leaves in (about 1/3 of pot)
- Rinsing Tea: First brew is discarded to rinse leaves
- Brewing: Pour hot water and let steep
- Pouring: Distribute into small teacups
- Tasting: Enjoy the aroma and flavor
Etiquette:
- Hold teacup with both hands
- Taste slowly rather than drink all at once
- Listen to server explanations while enjoying leisurely
Understanding the Japanese Colonial Period History
Understanding Jiufen deeply requires knowing the history of the Japanese colonial period.
Main Influences:
- Architectural Style: Japanese wooden building techniques remain
- Mining Technology: Japanese technology enabled full-scale gold mining development
- Lifestyle Culture: Integration of hot spring and tea cultures
- Language: Some elderly can speak Japanese
Current Japan-Taiwan Relations:
Taiwan tends to value Japanese colonial period infrastructure development and education systems, and Japanese tourists are welcomed in Jiufen.
Connection to the Film “A City of Sadness”
Film Content:
A work depicting Taiwan’s turbulent period from the 1945 end of war to the 1949 February 28 Incident, filmed in Jiufen.
Impact on Jiufen:
- Following this film, the declining Jiufen is reborn as a tourist destination
- Preservation of retro townscape progresses
- Becomes established as a place of “nostalgia” for Taiwanese people
Accommodation Information: Choosing to Stay in Jiufen
Merits of Staying in Jiufen
Main Advantages:
- Enjoy Quiet Jiufen at Early Morning and Late Night: Experience when day-trippers are gone
- Enjoy Night Scenery at Leisure: No need to worry about final buses
- Experience Jiufen’s Refreshing Morning: Experience morning mist-covered fantastical Jiufen
- Deeper Appreciation of Jiufen’s Charm: More time flexibility
Recommended Accommodations
1. Jiufen Iwaya Guesthouse
- Characteristics: Rooms with spectacular ocean views
- Price Range: 3,000-5,000 New Taiwan Dollars/night
2. Jiufen A-HOME Guesthouse
- Characteristics: Japanese support possible, clean and comfortable
- Price Range: 2,500-4,000 New Taiwan Dollars/night
3. Jiufen Tabinooto Guesthouse
- Characteristics: Retro atmosphere, kind owner
- Price Range: 2,000-3,500 New Taiwan Dollars/night
Booking Tips:
- Japanese language booking possible on Booking.com and Agoda
- Early booking essential on weekends and holidays
- Always check reviews
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q1: Is Jiufen Really the Model for Spirited Away?
A: Studio Ghibli has not officially recognized it as a model location, but the visual similarities are extremely high, and fans worldwide visit Jiufen as “the world of Spirited Away.” While not an official model location, it has value as a place where you can experience the film’s atmosphere.
Q2: When is the Best Season to Visit Jiufen?
A: Spring (March-May) and autumn (September-November) are climatically the best seasons. To enjoy the dusk scenery, autumn is particularly recommended due to clear air. However, as this region receives substantial rain, rain gear is essential regardless of season.
Q3: How Much Time is Needed for Jiufen Sightseeing?
A: A minimum of 3 hours is recommended, ideally 4-5 hours. To enjoy both daytime exploration and dusk-to-night scenery, arriving around 14:00 and staying until around 18:30 is ideal.
Q4: Can You Eat in Jiufen?
A: Yes, there are many restaurants and street food options. You can particularly enjoy specialty gourmet items like taro balls, fish ball soup, and mugwort cakes. Enjoying tea and tea snacks at teahouses is also recommended.
Q5: Can Jiufen Be Enjoyed on Rainy Days?
A: Yes, and rainy Jiufen actually has unique charm. The fantastical atmosphere enveloped in mist offers different appeal from clear days. However, stone steps become slippery, so comfortable shoes and rain gear are essential.
Q6: Is a Day Trip from Taipei to Jiufen Possible?
A: Absolutely. At about 1.5-2 hours one way from Taipei, a typical plan is visiting in the afternoon-evening, enjoying night scenery, and returning to Taipei. Attention to the final bus time (around 21:00) is necessary.
Q7: Is Japanese Understood in Jiufen?
A: As a tourist destination, basic Japanese is understood at major shops and teahouses. Many shops also have Japanese menu labels. However, Mandarin Chinese is the primary language.
Q8: What Should I Be Careful About When Visiting Jiufen?
A: ①Many stone steps that are slippery, comfortable shoes essential, ②Extremely crowded on weekends and evenings, ③Rain frequent, collapsible umbrella essential, ④Small shops often cash-only, ⑤Be cautious of pickpockets and theft, etc.
Conclusion: Experience the World of Spirited Away in Jiufen
Jiufen, Taiwan, while not an official model location, beautifully embodies the worldview of “Spirited Away.” The red lantern-lit stone steps, nostalgic townscape, and fantastical dusk atmosphere are precisely the mysterious world that Chihiro wandered into.
Summary of Key Points for Jiufen Sightseeing:
- Access: About 90 minutes by direct bus from Taipei, day trip possible
- Best Time: Dusk through night (17:30-19:30) is most beautiful
- Must-See Spots: Amei Teahouse, Shuqi Road stone steps, Jishan Street old street
- Cuisine: Experience taro balls, fish ball soup, Taiwanese tea
- Time Needed: 3-4 hours stay recommended
- Clothing: Comfortable walking shoes and rain gear essential
- Crowd Avoidance: Weekday mornings or late evenings best
Jiufen is cherished worldwide by fans as a special place where they can feel the world of “Spirited Away,” separate from Studio Ghibli’s official statements. Anyone who has seen the film will experience the sensation of “entering that world.”
When visiting Taiwan, be sure to experience the moment when red lanterns light up in Jiufen at dusk. There truly exists the mysterious and beautiful world that Chihiro experienced.
Finally: When visiting Jiufen, show respect for local culture and history, and follow proper etiquette while enjoying your visit. We hope this beautiful townscape will continue to be loved by many people for years to come.
