[Only Memories] Yamagata City, Yamagata Prefecture

【Only Yesterday】(Yamagata City, Yamagata Prefecture)

“Only Yesterday,” a Studio Ghibli film released in 1991, tells the story of Taeko Okajima, a 27-year-old office worker, who travels from Tokyo to Yamagata and rediscovers herself through life in a rural village. The beautiful Yamagata landscapes depicted in this work left a deep impression on many viewers’ hearts. This article provides detailed information about the charm of Yamagata Prefecture, which served as the setting for the film, as well as filming locations and practical information for visiting pilgrimage sites.

The Relationship Between Only Yesterday and Yamagata Prefecture

Film Setting

In the modern-day scenes of “Only Yesterday” (set in 1982), the main character Taeko visits Yamagata Prefecture for a 10-day vacation at the home of her sister’s brother-in-law. While the film does not explicitly mention specific place names, multiple regions within Yamagata Prefecture served as models, with the landscapes of the Okitama region (置賜地方) being particularly strongly reflected.

Director Isao Takahata conducted thorough research throughout Yamagata Prefecture during the film’s production. The rural landscapes of Yamagata, safflower fields, hot spring towns, and other features are depicted with care, beautifully expressing both the beauty and harshness of Japanese rural areas.

Why Yamagata Was Chosen

In the original manga by Hotaru Okamoto and Yuko Tone, the setting was not specifically identified. Director Isao Takahata’s choice of Yamagata was based on the following elements:

• History of Safflower Cultivation: Yamagata’s safflower culture continuing from the Edo period
• Beautiful Pastoral Landscapes: The scenery of the Okitama Basin showing different faces with each season
• Hot Spring Culture: Rich hot spring resources including Zao Hot Spring
• Traditional Rural Life: A region preserving Japan’s original landscape

At the time of the film’s release, Yamagata Prefecture still retained much of Japan’s rural landscape that was already being lost elsewhere.

Filming Locations in Yamagata Prefecture Featured in the Film

Takahata Town (高畠町): Main Filming Location

Located in southern Yamagata Prefecture, Takahata Town is known as the primary filming location for “Only Yesterday.” This town, which sprawls across the Okitama Basin, is the very pastoral landscape depicted in the film.

Highlights of Takahata Town

Mahoroba no Sato
The Takahata Town Tourist Information Center is located here, where you can obtain information related to Only Yesterday. The surrounding area features rural landscapes reminiscent of the film.

Kameoka Monju Hall
A historic temple known as one of Japan’s three Monju halls. Though it doesn’t directly appear in the film, it’s worth visiting as a historical spot in Takahata Town.

Takahata Winery
A facility where you can experience Yamagata’s wine culture. Though it developed after the film’s time setting, it offers insight into modern Takahata’s appeal.

Zao Hot Spring: Model for Hot Spring Scenes

The hot spring scenes in which Taeko visits are modeled after Zao Hot Spring in Yamagata City. This hot spring, with 1,900 years of history, is known for its strong acidic sulfur springs.

Features of Zao Hot Spring

• Water Quality: Strong acidic sulfur spring (pH around 1.6)
• Health Benefits: Effective for skin diseases, neuralgia, and fatigue recovery
• Public Baths: Three public baths remain, allowing you to experience the atmosphere of the film
• Large Open-Air Bath: An open-air bath offering a sense of freedom in nature

The old-fashioned hot spring atmosphere depicted in the film is still preserved today, making it an essential spot for pilgrims visiting sacred sites.

Safflower Fields: Symbolic Scenes in the Film

The safflower picking scene, impressively depicted at the film’s climax. Yamagata Prefecture flourished as a major safflower production center in the Edo period and was known throughout the nation as “Mogami Safflower.”

Places to See Safflower

Kahoku Town (河北町)
The region where safflower cultivation is most thriving in Yamagata Prefecture. The “Safflower Festival” is held every July, where you can see a field full of safflowers.

Takase District, Yamagata City
A spot where you can view safflowers in a location close to the city.

Shirataka Town
Known as a safflower cultivation area in the Okitama region.

Safflower blooms from early to mid-July. The flowers, which change color from bright yellow to orange, are truly the world of the film itself.

Rural Landscapes: Throughout the Okitama Basin

The beautiful rural landscapes depicted in the film are modeled after the entire Okitama Basin. In particular, the following regions retain much of the film’s atmosphere:

• Nanyo City: Landscapes of grapevines and rice paddies spreading across the area
• Yonezawa City: Scenery of the basin surrounded by mountains and rice fields
• Kawanishi Town: Peaceful rural landscape

From spring’s rice-planting season through summer’s green rice stalks, autumn’s golden grain, and winter’s snowy landscape, there is beauty in each season.

How to Access Yamagata Prefecture

From Tokyo to Yamagata: Yamagata Shinkansen

The vehicle Taeko boards in the film is the Yamagata Shinkansen. Since it opened in 1992 (the year after the film’s release), it didn’t actually exist in the film’s time setting (1982), but it is now the most convenient access method.

Details of Yamagata Shinkansen

• Tokyo Station to Yamagata Station: Approximately 2 hours 40 minutes
• Fare: Ordinary reserved car approximately 11,000 yen per person
• Service Frequency: Approximately 10 trains daily

Just like in the film, you can enjoy the passing scenery through the windows while leisurely making your way to Yamagata.

Access to Takahata Town

By Train

• Get off at Yamagata Shinkansen’s “Takahata Station” (approximately 2 hours 20 minutes from Tokyo)
• From the station, a rental car or taxi is convenient for getting to various locations in town

By Car

• Tohoku Central Expressway “Takahata IC” to various locations in town
• Approximately 4 hours from Tokyo

Access to Zao Hot Spring

By Bus

• 40 minutes from Yamagata Station on a bus bound for Zao Hot Spring
• Fare: Approximately 1,000 yen one way
• 1-2 buses per hour

By Car

• Approximately 30 minutes from “Yamagata Zao IC” on the Yamagata Expressway

Experiences in Yamagata Prefecture: Recreating the Film’s World

Safflower Picking Experience

You can actually experience the impressive scene from the film through safflower picking experience.

Details of Safflower Picking Experience

• Season: Early to mid-July (varies by year)
• Location: Kahoku Town, Shirataka Town, etc.
• Activities: Early morning safflower picking, safflower dyeing experience, etc.
• Cost: Approximately 1,000-2,000 yen (varies by facility)

As Taeko experiences in the film, picking each safflower by hand during the early morning hours when dew still remains, with their thorny stems, allows you to feel both the difficulty and beauty of farmwork simultaneously.

Stay at Farm Bed and Breakfast

For those who want to experience farm life as depicted in the film, farm bed and breakfast lodgings are recommended.

Appeals of Farm Bed and Breakfast

• Local Ingredients: Fresh vegetables and fruit, Yamagata beef, etc.
• Farm Work Experience: Participate in seasonal farm work
• Community Exchange: Warm interactions with local people
• Rates: 7,000-10,000 yen per person including breakfast and dinner

Several farm bed and breakfast accommodations exist in the Okitama region, allowing you to experience country living like in the film for a short period.

Hot Spring Tour

Yamagata Prefecture is known as a “hot spring kingdom,” with over 100 hot springs throughout the prefecture.

Recommended Hot Springs

Zao Hot Spring
The film’s model location. Famous as the “beautiful woman’s bath” thanks to its strong acidic sulfur springs.

Onogawa Hot Spring
A quiet hot spring area in Yonezawa City. Also famous for fireflies visible here.

Akazu Hot Spring
A historic hot spring area in Nanyo City. Some facilities offer wine baths.

Enjoy Yamagata Cuisine

Experience Yamagata’s food culture, which also appears in the film.

Must-Try Yamagata Specialties

Imoni
An autumn tradition in Yamagata. A local dish of taro potatoes and beef simmered in soy sauce-based broth.

Cherries (Sakuranbo)
Yamagata accounts for approximately 70% of national production. Peak season is June-July.

Chilled Ramen
A summer specialty originating in Yamagata. Cold soup ramen with ice, unique in style.

Tama Konnyaku
Round konnyaku simmered in soy sauce. A standard snack at hot spring towns and tourist sites.

Dadacha Beans
A specialty of Tsuruoka City. Edamame with unique sweetness and aroma.

Only Yesterday Sacred Site Pilgrimage Model Courses

1 Night, 2 Days Course

Day 1

• 9:00 Depart Tokyo Station on Yamagata Shinkansen
• 11:30 Arrive at Takahata Station
• 12:00 Lunch in Takahata Town (local soba, etc.)
• 13:00 Explore the area around Mahoroba no Sato
• 14:30 Rural landscape drive
• 16:00 Move to Zao Hot Spring
• 17:00 Check in to Zao Hot Spring
• 18:00 Experience hot spring at public bath
• 19:00 Dinner at inn

Day 2

• 7:00 Morning hot spring bath
• 8:00 Breakfast
• 10:00 Depart Zao Hot Spring
• 11:00 Yamagata City sightseeing (Bunshōkan, etc.)
• 12:30 Lunch near Yamagata Station
• 14:00 Depart Yamagata Station on Yamagata Shinkansen
• 16:30 Arrive at Tokyo Station

Safflower Season 2 Nights, 3 Days Course (July Only)

Day 1

• Travel from Tokyo to Takahata Town
• Takahata Town sightseeing
• Stay at farm bed and breakfast

Day 2

• Early morning: Safflower picking experience (Kahoku Town)
• Afternoon: Safflower dyeing experience
• Move to Zao Hot Spring and stay overnight

Day 3

• Zao Hot Spring exploration
• Yamagata City sightseeing
• Return to Tokyo

Best Seasons for Visiting

Spring (April-May)

• Appeal: Cherry blossoms, wild vegetables, rice-planting preparations
• Temperature: 10°C-20°C
• Events: Uesugi Festival (Yonezawa City, May)

Summer (June-August)

• Appeal: Cherry picking, safflower, green rice paddies
• Temperature: 20°C-30°C
• Events: Safflower Festival (Kahoku Town, July), Hanagasa Festival (Yamagata City, August)
• Recommendation Level: ★★★★★ (Safflower season is especially a must-see)

Autumn (September-November)

• Appeal: Rice harvesting, golden rice paddies, grapes and La France pears
• Temperature: 10°C-25°C
• Events: Japan’s Largest Imoni Gathering (Yamagata City, September)
• Recommendation Level: ★★★★★ (Most similar to film’s atmosphere)

Winter (December-March)

• Appeal: Snowy landscapes, skiing, winter hot springs
• Temperature: -5°C-5°C
• Caution: Heavy snowfall; winter tires on vehicles are essential

Yamagata Prefecture’s Appeal: Beyond the Film

History and Culture

Yamagata Prefecture is a collection of regions, each with its own unique history: Yonezawa, which flourished as a castle town under the Uesugi clan; Yamagata, the base of the Mogami clan; and Tsuruoka, the seat of the Shonai domain.

Dewa Sanzan Faith
The three mountains of Haguro, Gassan, and Yudono have long been known as sacred sites for mountain worship.

Safflower Culture
In the Edo period, the region flourished through safflower trade with Kyoto and Osaka, so much so that it was called “Sakai in the West, Yamagata in the East.”

Nature in All Four Seasons

The beautiful nature depicted in the film extends throughout Yamagata Prefecture.

• Zao’s Ice Trees: A winter spectacle (January-February)
• Gassan Alpine Plants: Summer mountaineering season
• Mogami River Boat Tour: Enjoyable year-round
• Yamadera (Risshaku-ji): A famous temple associated with Matsuo Basho

Fruit Kingdom

Beyond cherries alone, Yamagata is a treasure trove of fruit, including La France pears, grapes, and apples. Fruit picking is available at various locations.

Etiquette for Sacred Site Pilgrimage

Manners and Courtesy

Most filming locations are places where people actually live. Please note the following:

1. Do not trespass on private property without permission
2. Do not touch or take away crops
3. Always take your trash with you
4. Do not make loud noise
5. Do not forget to greet local residents

Photography

• Obtain permission before taking photos that identify individuals’ homes or people
• Be mindful of location information when posting on social media
• Drone photography often requires advance permission

Contributing to the Community

Sacred site pilgrimage also contributes to the local economy:

• Patronize local shops and restaurants
• Purchase local specialty products
• Choose local inns or bed and breakfast for accommodation

The Message Only Yesterday Conveys

Urban and Rural Life

The film contrasts urban life with rural living while depicting the value in both. What Taeko finds in Yamagata is not that one is better than the other, but rather the forgotten self and the essence of living.

Importance of Agriculture

The safflower-picking scene expresses both the hardship and beauty of farming work. It portrays the effort and pride of people who produce food—something modern society rarely considers.

Life Choices

At age 27, Taeko examines her life. More than 30 years after the film’s release, this theme continues to resonate with many people.

Only Yesterday-Related Facilities in Yamagata Prefecture

Takahata Town Tourist Information Center

You can obtain information about the film and receive guidance on tourist attractions throughout the town.

• Address: Yamagata Prefecture, Higashiokitama District, Takahata Town, Takahata
• Hours: 9:00-17:00
• Closed: Year-end and New Year holidays

Yamagata Prefecture Tourist Products Hall (Gutto Yamagata)

A tourist information center near Yamagata Station where you can find tourist information about the entire prefecture.

• Address: Yamagata City, Omote Zao 68
• Hours: 9:00-18:00
• Feature: All prefecture specialty products gathered in one place

How to Choose Accommodation

Onsen Inns

Hot spring inns in areas like Zao Hot Spring and Akazu Hot Spring allow you to experience the film’s atmosphere.

• Budget: 10,000-30,000 yen per person including breakfast and dinner
• Recommendation: Traditional wooden inns

Farm Bed and Breakfast

For those who value interaction with local people, farm bed and breakfast is recommended.

• Budget: 7,000-10,000 yen per person including breakfast and dinner
• Features: Home-like atmosphere, meals prepared with local ingredients

Business Hotels

Many business hotels near Yamagata Station are convenient as a base for sightseeing.

• Budget: Room only, 5,000-8,000 yen
• Advantage: Convenient access, good value

Deepening Appreciation of the Film

Watching Before Visiting

It is recommended that you watch the film again before visiting Yamagata. You will gain deeper understanding of the meticulously depicted landscapes and the emotions of the characters.

Reading the Original Manga

The original manga by Hotaru Okamoto and Yuko Tone focuses on episodes from the protagonist’s elementary school years. It has its own unique appeal different from the film.

Related Books

Books featuring interviews with Director Isao Takahata and behind-the-scenes production stories have been published, deepening your understanding of the film.

Other Tourist Attractions in Yamagata Prefecture

Places worth visiting along with sacred site pilgrimage:

Yamadera (Risshaku-ji)

A famous temple associated with poet Matsuo Basho, who wrote “Silence / seeps / into the rocks / insect song.” A spectacular view awaits at the top after climbing 1,015 stone steps.

Ginzan Hot Spring

A hot spring town full of Taisho-period romance. The nighttime scenery, illuminated by gas lamps, is fantastical.

Tsuruoka City

The gateway to Dewa Sanzan. Many attractions await, including the Chido Museum and Kamo Aquarium (famous for jellyfish exhibits).

Yonezawa City

A castle town with connections to the Uesugi clan. Cuisine is abundant here as well, including Yonezawa beef and Yonezawa ramen.

Transportation Details

Rental Cars

For free movement throughout Yamagata Prefecture, a rental car is convenient.

• Rental Locations: Yamagata Station, Yamagata Airport, Takahata Station, etc.
• Rates: 5,000-8,000 yen for 24 hours (varies by vehicle type)
• Caution: Winter driving experience on snowy roads is necessary in winter

Route Buses

Route buses operate to major tourist destinations, though service is limited.

Sightseeing Taxis

For efficient sightseeing, sightseeing taxis are another option.

• Cost: Approximately 15,000-20,000 yen for 3 hours
• Advantage: Drivers serve as tour guides

Yamagata’s Climate and Clothing

Climate Characteristics

Yamagata Prefecture features an inland climate typical of basins, with hot summers and cold winters.

• Summer: Temperatures often exceed 30°C. Strong sunlight.
• Winter: Often below freezing. Heavy snowfall in mountainous areas.
• Spring/Autumn: Large temperature differences between day and night.

Seasonal Clothing

Spring and Autumn
Bring a light jacket as mornings and evenings are cool.

Summer
Sunscreen, hat, and insect repellent are essential.

Winter
Thick coat, gloves, hat, and non-slip shoes are necessary.

Interaction with Local People

One of the charms of Yamagata is its warm people. Through conversation with locals, you may discover Yamagata’s appeal not depicted in the film.

Dialect

Yamagata dialect is unique and may be difficult to understand at first, but it has a warm quality.

• “Nda”: That’s right
• “Nme”: Delicious
• “Keppare”: Do your best

Conclusion: Only Yesterday and Your Journey to Yamagata

“Only Yesterday” is not merely an animation film. It is a work that makes us think about Japan’s original landscape, disappearing rural culture, and life choices. Visiting Yamagata Prefecture, the film’s setting, is not just reliving the film’s world but also an opportunity to examine ourselves living in the modern age.

Beautiful rural landscapes, warm hot springs, delicious food, and above all, warm-hearted people. In Yamagata Prefecture, the “precious things” the film wished to convey still live on.

From Tokyo by shinkansen in about 2.5 hours. Why not take a journey to Yamagata like Taeko, using a weekend? Surely you will find your own “only yesterday” there.

July when safflowers bloom, autumn when rice ears turn golden, winter covered in snow. Whenever you visit, Yamagata welcomes you with warmth. If the film touched your heart, be sure to actually visit the place, and experience its charm with your own eyes and senses.

Your experience in Yamagata Prefecture will surely become one of the precious “memories” in your life.