【Complete Guide】Tomo no Ura in Hiroshima Prefecture, the Stage of “Ponyo on the Cliff by the Sea” – Thorough Explanation
Tomo no Ura (Tomonoura), located in Fukuyama City, Hiroshima Prefecture, is a port town known worldwide as the setting for Studio Ghibli’s acclaimed animated film “Ponyo on the Cliff by the Sea.” Director Hayao Miyazaki actually stayed in this location and drew inspiration from its scenery to create the work, making it a sacred site visited by countless fans from around the world.
This article provides a detailed explanation of the relationship between Tomo no Ura and Ponyo, must-see pilgrimage spots, access methods, and important points for tourism – information you’ll want to know before visiting.
What is Tomo no Ura? The Birthplace of “Ponyo on the Cliff by the Sea”
A Historic Port Town Facing the Seto Inland Sea
Tomo no Ura is a port town at the southern end of Fukuyama City, Hiroshima Prefecture, facing the Seto Inland Sea. Long known as a “tidal waiting port,” it is renowned as a charming place where Edo period townscapes and stone-paved alleyways still remain.
This port, positioned roughly in the center of the Seto Inland Sea, played an important role during the age when navigation relied on tidal flows. As a result, many ships anchored here, and it developed into a bustling port town where merchants and travelers came and went.
Director Hayao Miyazaki’s Encounter with Tomo no Ura
In 2005, Director Hayao Miyazaki stayed in Tomo no Ura for approximately two months to conceptualize a new film. He lodged at “Tomo no Ura Onsen Ōfūtei,” a hot spring inn perched on a high ground overlooking the port, and reportedly spent each day sketching while strolling through the town.
The director was captivated by Tomo no Ura’s intricate alleyways, slopes, ships floating in the harbor, and above all, the serene Seto Inland Sea landscape. The inspiration gained during this stay became the foundation for the world of “Ponyo on the Cliff by the Sea,” released in 2008.
The Relationship Between “Ponyo on the Cliff by the Sea” and Tomo no Ura
Studio Ghibli has not officially stated that it was modeled on a specific location, but it is widely recognized that Tomo no Ura was an important source of inspiration, based on the fact of Miyazaki’s stay and the similarities of scenery appearing in the film.
The atmosphere of the port town in the film, the narrow alleyways, slopes, and the landscape where sea and town merge show many overlapping features with Tomo no Ura. Particularly, many fans point out that the harbor view seen from the cliff-top house where the protagonist Sōsuke lives closely resembles Tomo no Ura’s topography.
Complete Guide to Sacred Sites in Tomo no Ura
1. Taichōrō (Opposing the Tide Tower)
Taichōrō is the guest hall of Fukuzen Temple, built in the Edo period and designated as a national historic site. The view of the Seto Inland Sea from here is praised as “the finest scenic beauty of Japan” (Nitō daiichi keishō), and it is said to have been admired by Korean emissaries.
This high-ground location, which overlooks the harbor and sea, is popular as a spot where one can feel the world of Ponyo. The calm sea viewed from the tatami seating conjures scenes from the film.
Access Information:
- Address: 2 Tomo-cho, Fukuyama City, Hiroshima Prefecture
- Hours: 8:00–17:00
- Admission: Adults ¥200, Junior/Senior High School ¥150, Elementary School ¥100
2. Jōyatō (Eternal Night Lighthouse)
The Jōyatō, a symbol of Tomo no Ura, is a stone lighthouse built in 1859. At approximately 5.5 meters tall, it is said to be among the largest Edo period eternal night lighthouses still standing in Japan.
Standing on the harbor pier, this lighthouse emits a gentle glow at night, creating a nostalgic atmosphere. For Ponyo fans, it is an essential photography spot symbolizing the port town.
Photography Tips:
- Dusk is the recommended time for photography
- Capturing the lighthouse, harbor, and boats together creates a photo close to Ponyo’s world
3. Tomo Port and Sensui Island (Senzui Island)
Tomo Port is believed to be the model for the harbor depicted in the film. With small fishing boats moored and gentle waves lapping the shore, the landscape is the stage of Ponyo itself.
Sensui Island, approximately a 5-minute boat ride from the port, is part of the Seto Inland Sea National Park and retains beautiful natural scenery. From the island, one can view Tomo no Ura’s townscape from the sea, allowing enjoyment of the sacred site from an angle different from the film.
Ferry Information to Sensui Island:
- Operating Hours: 5:30 am–10:30 pm (approximately every 30 minutes)
- Fare: Adults ¥240 one-way, ¥460 round-trip
- Travel Time: Approximately 5 minutes
4. Slopes and Alleyways of Tomo no Ura
The charm of Tomo no Ura lies in its intricate slopes and narrow alleyways. Climbing the stone-paved slope, the view suddenly opens to reveal the sea – a moment that feels like stepping into Ponyo’s world.
The slope leading from the harbor to the high ground particularly evokes scenes of Sōsuke running about. The alleyways lined with old residences and stone walls create an atmosphere as if time-traveling, and simply strolling through them is enjoyable.
Strolling Tips:
- It is recommended to wear comfortable walking shoes
- Since alleyways are narrow, please be considerate of residents’ lives while strolling
- Early morning or evening walks are quieter and more atmospheric
5. Tomo no Ura Onsen Ōfūtei
This is the hot spring inn where Director Hayao Miyazaki actually stayed. Positioned on high ground, it offers views of the Seto Inland Sea from guest rooms and the open-air bath.
The room where the director stayed remains (though not open to the public), and the view from this location is said to have greatly influenced the conception of “Ponyo on the Cliff by the Sea.” Even without staying overnight, day-use bathing is possible during certain hours, making it a special experience for Ponyo fans.
Facility Information:
- Address: 136 Tomo-cho, Fukuyama City, Hiroshima Prefecture
- Day-Use Bathing: 11:00 am–3:00 pm (confirm in advance)
- Charge: Approximately ¥1,100 for adults (varies by season)
6. Ōōji Temple and Taishi Hall
Ōōji Temple, situated on high ground, offers panoramic views of Tomo no Ura’s townscape and the Seto Inland Sea. The area around Taishi Hall within the temple grounds is particularly known as an excellent viewpoint where one can feel Ponyo’s world.
Spring brings beautiful cherry blossoms, and autumn features magnificent autumn leaves – seasonal scenery can be enjoyed year-round. While climbing stone steps is necessary, the view upon arrival is exceptional.
7. Tomo no Ura History and Folklore Museum
This museum allows one to learn about Tomo no Ura’s history and culture. Understanding the town’s appearance during the Edo period and its history as a thriving port helps deepen appreciation of the background of the town that became Ponyo’s stage.
The building itself holds historical value, and one can contemplate the lives of that era while viewing the exhibits.
Access Methods to Tomo no Ura
Access by Train and Bus
From JR Fukuyama Station:
- Board the Tomo Railroad bus bound for “Tomo Port” from the south exit of JR Fukuyama Station
- Travel Time: Approximately 30 minutes
- Fare: ¥550 one-way
- Buses operate 2–3 times per hour
Getting off at the final “Tomo Port” bus stop puts you within walking distance of the eternal night lighthouse and harbor. The bus route itself offers scenic views of the Seto Inland Sea.
From Hiroshima Airport:
- Limousine bus from Hiroshima Airport to JR Fukuyama Station (approximately 60 minutes)
- Transfer to the bus mentioned above
Access by Car
Using the Sanyō Expressway:
- Approximately 15 minutes from Fukuyama East IC
- Approximately 30 minutes from Fukuyama West IC
Parking Information:
While Tomo no Ura has several parking lots, the town center has narrow roads, so using the public parking areas near the harbor is recommended.
- Tomo no Ura Municipal Parking Lot: ¥450/day for regular vehicles
- Tomo no Ura Tourist Information Center Parking Lot: Free (limited spaces)
On weekends and during tourist season, it can get crowded, so early arrival is recommended.
Access by Ferry
It is also possible to visit Tomo no Ura by ferry as part of a tour route through the Seto Inland Sea islands. Routes from Onomichi and other Seto Inland Sea islands are available, offering a special experience of approaching Tomo no Ura from the sea.
Best Seasons for Tomo no Ura Tourism and Required Time
Recommended Visiting Periods
Spring (March–May):
The cherry blossom season is particularly beautiful, with a mild climate ideal for strolling. While Golden Week brings crowds, mid-April is recommended.
Summer (June–August):
The Seto Inland Sea’s blue waters are most beautiful this season. However, heat precautions are essential. Early morning or evening walks are recommended.
Autumn (September–November):
The climate is mild and ideal for tourism. Autumn leaves can also be enjoyed, and seasonal cuisine is abundant.
Winter (December–February):
Fewer tourists visit, making it ideal for those wishing to explore the sacred site quietly. The Seto Inland Sea viewed through clear winter air has its own special beauty.
Time Required for Tourism
Half-Day Course (3–4 hours):
A course visiting main spots (eternal night lighthouse, Taichōrō, harbor area). Sufficient to enjoy as a day trip from Fukuyama Station.
Full-Day Course (6–8 hours):
A course including ferry to Sensui Island, leisurely strolling, and dining. Allows full appreciation of Tomo no Ura’s charm.
Overnight Course:
Staying at a hot spring inn to experience Tomo no Ura from dusk through night to early morning. One can feel the passage of time as Director Miyazaki did during his stay.
Gourmet and Specialty Products of Tomo no Ura
Sea Bream Dishes
Tomo no Ura is renowned for sea bream. Fresh sea bream dishes are a must-try when visiting.
- Sea Bream Rice: A local specialty of Tomo no Ura
- Sea Bream Sashimi: Fresh local sea bream
- Sea Bream Sōmen: A traditional Seto Inland Sea dish
Hōmei Sake (Health-Promoting Sake)
A medicinal sake originating from Tomo no Ura with approximately 350 years of history. A sweet liqueur made by steeping 16 types of medicinal herbs, it is popular as a souvenir.
Multiple breweries exist, each producing with unique methods, making taste comparisons enjoyable.
Shirasu and Marine Products
Fresh marine products from the Seto Inland Sea are abundant. Shirasu (tiny dried fish) is particularly exquisite and ideal as a souvenir.
Vintage Cafés of Tomo no Ura
Old wooden buildings have been converted into cafés, where one can enjoy coffee and sweets in a retro atmosphere. Perfect as a rest stop while strolling.
Precautions and Etiquette for Tomo no Ura Tourism
Consideration for Residents
While Tomo no Ura is a tourist destination, local residents actually live here. Please observe the following:
- No trespassing on private property
- Be modest about photographing residences
- Avoid loud conversations early morning or at night
- Always take trash with you
Road Conditions
Tomo no Ura’s alleyways are extremely narrow, and vehicle passage is difficult in many places.
- Make walking the basis for exploration
- If visiting by car, park in the harbor area parking lot and walk
- Many one-way streets and dead ends exist; confirm with map apps
Slopes and Stairs
Accessing high areas requires climbing slopes and stairs.
- Wear comfortable walking shoes
- Prepare water for hydration
- Heat stroke prevention is especially important in summer
Tourist Spots Around Tomo no Ura
Fukuyama Castle
Fukuyama Castle, a 5-minute walk from JR Fukuyama Station, had its main tower undergo major renovation in 2022 and regained its beautiful appearance. Visiting it along with Tomo no Ura is also recommended.
Onomichi
About 40 minutes by car from Tomo no Ura, Onomichi, known as a “town of slopes,” is also a popular tourist destination as a film stage. It is worthwhile to visit as part of a tour around the Seto Inland Sea region.
Shimanami Kaido
The Shimanami Kaido, connecting Onomichi to Imabari, is a scenic route linking islands of the Seto Inland Sea. One can fully enjoy the beauty of the Seto Inland Sea through cycling or driving.
Special Ways for Ponyo Fans to Enjoy
Stroll with a Sketchbook
Why not try sketching the scenery yourself, as Director Miyazaki did during his stays? Sketching deepens one’s appreciation of the town’s charm.
Compare with Film Scenes While Visiting
Rewatching the film before visiting allows discoveries like “could this be that scene?” – making the experience more enjoyable. Saving film screenshots on your smartphone is also recommended.
Early Morning or Twilight Walks
Tomo no Ura is especially beautiful and serene early in the morning or at dusk when tourists are fewer. Staying overnight and experiencing the town’s changing appearance throughout the day is also wonderful.
Interaction with Local People
Talking with locals at shops and restaurants can provide information not found in guidebooks and teach about the town’s history.
Historical and Cultural Value of Tomo no Ura
A Port Town Continuing from the Man’yō Era
Tomo no Ura is a historic port even mentioned in the Man’yōshū (Collection of Ten Thousand Leaves). A poem remains: “At Tomo no Ura / waiting for the tide / the moon grows full…” revealing its importance as an ancient port.
Korean Emissaries and Tomo no Ura
During the Edo period, Tomo no Ura was an important port of call for Korean emissaries. Records of their stay remain at Taichōrō, telling of international exchange history.
Sakamoto Ryōma and Tomo no Ura
In the late Shogunate period, the “Iroha Maru,” carrying Sakamoto Ryōma, collided with a Kii Domain vessel off Tomo no Ura. Negotiations for this “Iroha Maru Incident” took place in Tomo no Ura, making it a location connected to Ryōma’s legacy.
Consideration for Important Traditional Building Preservation Districts
Tomo no Ura’s townscape is under consideration for designation as an Important Traditional Building Preservation District, with its historical value recognized. Efforts to preserve and utilize this valuable port town retaining Edo period character are ongoing.
Four-Season Charm of Tomo no Ura
Spring in Tomo no Ura
Spring, when cherry blossoms bloom, is one of Tomo no Ura’s most vibrant seasons. When blossoms around Ōōji Temple and the harbor area reach full bloom, the contrast with the historic townscape is beautiful, drawing many photography enthusiasts.
The “Tomo no Ura Benzaishima Fireworks Festival” is held in May (varies by year), with fireworks launched over the Seto Inland Sea creating a magical scene.
Summer in Tomo no Ura
Summer Seto Inland Sea is calm, with the contrast between blue sea and sky beautiful. Swimming at Sensui Island and evening cooling by the harbor are enjoyable.
Summer festivals are also held, allowing viewing of traditional events.
Autumn in Tomo no Ura
Autumn has the mildest climate, making it ideal for strolling. Autumn leaves are beautiful, particularly around Ōōji Temple, renowned as an excellent autumn foliage spot.
Seasonal flavors are abundant, and dishes using fresh marine products become even more delicious.
Winter in Tomo no Ura
Winter Tomo no Ura sees fewer tourists, allowing experience of the quiet port town atmosphere. The Seto Inland Sea viewed through clear winter air has a beauty distinct from summer.
Warming in hot springs while viewing the winter sea is exceptional.
Lodging Information for Visiting Tomo no Ura
Hot Spring Inns
Tomo no Ura has several hot spring inns overlooking the Seto Inland Sea.
- Tomo no Ura Onsen Ōfūtei: The inn where Director Miyazaki stayed
- Keishōkan Rentei: Popular for open-air hot springs facing the sea
- Hotel Ōfūtei Annex: Enjoy hot springs at reasonable prices
Guest Houses and Minshuku
Guest houses in renovated old wooden buildings are increasing, allowing budget-conscious stays. Interaction with locals is possible, and the homey atmosphere is appealing.
Hotels in Fukuyama City
Multiple lodging facilities from business hotels to city hotels are available around JR Fukuyama Station. Using Fukuyama Station as a base for day trips to Tomo no Ura is also convenient.
Conclusion: Experience the World of “Ponyo on the Cliff by the Sea” in Tomo no Ura
Tomo no Ura, a beautiful port town in Fukuyama City, Hiroshima Prefecture, was the inspiration source for “Ponyo on the Cliff by the Sea.” With Director Hayao Miyazaki actually staying here and creating the work’s world from this location’s scenery, it has become a special place for Ghibli fans worldwide.
Historic townscape continuing from the Edo period, serene Seto Inland Sea, intricate alleyways and slopes, and ships floating in the harbor – all these elements allow actual experience of Ponyo’s world.
Beyond pilgrimage tourism, Tomo no Ura is a fascinating destination where one can enjoy the town’s history and culture, delicious cuisine, and hot springs. Please take time to explore slowly.
You can experience the atmosphere of a port town where time flows gently, as Director Miyazaki surely felt here. Rewatching the film before visiting will deepen your appreciation of Tomo no Ura’s charm.
While listening to gentle Seto Inland Sea waves, walking slopes where Ponyo and Sōsuke (perhaps) ran about – such a special experience awaits you in Tomo no Ura.
