[Complete Guide] The Stage of Spirited Away, Kotatsu-yu at Edo-Tokyo Museum of Architecture “Thorough Explanation”
The bathhouse “Yuna-ya” that appears in Studio Ghibli’s masterpiece “Spirited Away.” The place that became the model for its luxurious and ornate exterior is “Kotatsu-yu,” located at the Edo-Tokyo Museum of Architecture in Koganei City, Tokyo. This article provides a thorough explanation of the charm of Kotatsu-yu, a sacred site that any Ghibli fan should visit at least once, from its architectural features to photo spots and surrounding facilities.
About the Edo-Tokyo Museum of Architecture
The Edo-Tokyo Museum of Architecture is an open-air museum located within Koganei Park, a metropolitan park in Koganei City, Tokyo. Opened in 1993, this facility preserves the history and culture of Tokyo from the Edo period through the early Showa era by relocating, restoring, and displaying culturally valuable historic buildings.
The site spans approximately 7 hectares, with 30 buildings displayed across three areas: “Center Zone,” “West Zone,” and “East Zone.” Visitors can actually enter the buildings and experience the lifestyles and architectural techniques of that era firsthand—a truly invaluable place.
Structure and Characteristics of the Park
The Center Zone features the former Koka-den building functioning as a visitor center and exhibition rooms, serving as guidance for the entire park.
The West Zone recreates the residential hillside area of Tokyo, with mansions and Western-style buildings of the upper classes from the Taisho through early Showa periods lined up. Its characteristics include high-grade buildings such as the de Lalande Residence and the Mitsui Hachiro’emon Residence.
The East Zone retains the strong atmosphere of the downtown area, with merchant houses, bathhouses, and taverns that were closely connected to common people’s lives. Kotatsu-yu, which became the model for “Spirited Away,” is located in this zone.
Kotatsu-yu: Model for the “Yuna-ya” Bathhouse in Spirited Away
History and Background of Kotatsu-yu
Kotatsu-yu is a public bathhouse built in 1929 (Showa 4) in Senjiu Motomachi, Adachi Ward, Tokyo. Constructed during the reconstruction period after the Great Kanto Earthquake, this building is a typical example of the “Tokyo-style bathhouse” architecture that was popular in Tokyo at that time, holding a very important position in the history of bathhouse architecture.
After operating as an actual bathhouse for approximately 60 years until 1988 (Showa 63), its cultural value was recognized, and it was relocated and restored to the Edo-Tokyo Museum of Architecture in 1991. It is currently designated as a Tokyo Metropolitan Tangible Cultural Property.
Model Building Officially Recognized by Studio Ghibli
Studio Ghibli officially acknowledges that Kotatsu-yu is one of the sources of inspiration for the Yuna-ya bathhouse in “Spirited Away.” Director Hayao Miyazaki visited the Edo-Tokyo Museum of Architecture multiple times to conduct research and gather reference materials for the film’s production.
The luxurious exterior of the Yuna-ya bathhouse depicted in the film, particularly the formation of the roof that evokes the grandeur of temples and shrines, was greatly influenced by Kotatsu-yu’s architectural style. However, while the Yuna-ya in the film is depicted as a massive multi-story building, the actual Kotatsu-yu is a two-story bathhouse, so the sense of scale differs.
Architectural Characteristics of Kotatsu-yu
The Karabuki-style Roof
The most distinctive element of Kotatsu-yu is the karabuki (curved gable) roof installed above the front entrance. A karabuki is a curved decorative gable (the formation on the side of a roof), commonly seen in temples, shrines, and castle architecture—an elegant and prestigious style.
This karabuki is a symbol of the architectural style called “miya-zukuri” (shrine-like construction), giving the bathhouse the grandeur and luxury of a shrine. During the post-earthquake reconstruction period, bathhouse operators competed to build bathhouses with lavish exteriors to attract customers. Kotatsu-yu embodies that era’s spirit.
Seven Lucky Gods Sculptures
Finely crafted sculptures of the Seven Lucky Gods are placed above the entrance. Daikoku, Ebisu, Bishamonten, Benzaiten, Fukurokuji, Juroji, and Hotei—the seven deities are arranged as if bestowing fortune upon all who visit.
These sculptures are not merely decorative but hold significance as auspicious symbols befitting the bathhouse’s name “Kotatsu-yu” (which relates to fertility), expressing wishes for family health and prosperity. The craftsmanship evident in the detailed carving speaks to the high level of architectural technology of that era.
Ori-age Gou Ceiling (Stepped Coffered Ceiling)
Upon entering the building, what immediately catches the eye is the ceiling of the changing room. This ceiling structure, called an ori-age gou ceiling, features ceiling boards arranged in a grid pattern that step upward in stages toward the center—a prestigious style seen in temple architecture.
This ceiling structure makes the changing room feel larger than its actual dimensions, creating a sense of openness and luxury. The ceiling height reaches approximately 4 meters, an extraordinarily extravagant design for a bathhouse of that time.
Mount Fuji Ink Painting
On the wall facing the bathing area, a Mount Fuji ink painting, standard in Tokyo-style bathhouses, is depicted. This Mount Fuji was painted by a specialized bathhouse mural artist, and the sight of Mount Fuji while bathing evokes the traditional “hot spring healing” custom that dates back to the Edo period.
During the relocation and restoration, the painting was carefully preserved to faithfully recreate its original state by experts. The Mount Fuji painting visible today is a valuable cultural heritage conveying Showa-era bathhouse culture.
Tile Decoration and Building Materials
Both the exterior and interior of Kotatsu-yu feature colorful tiles that became popular from the Taisho through early Showa periods. Decorative tiles around the entrance, bathroom wainscoting tiles, and changing room floor tiles all reflect the aesthetic sensibilities of craftspeople of that time.
Particularly noteworthy are the blue-green tiles used on the bathroom wainscoting, which were high-end imported tiles of that era. Additionally, wood materials such as cypress and zelkova were used generously throughout the structure, conveying the determination of the bathhouse owner at the time of construction.
Relationship to Spirited Away
Design Source for the Yuna-ya
The “Yuna-ya” bathhouse in “Spirited Away,” where the protagonist Chihiro comes to work, was created with inspiration drawn from multiple real buildings. Among these, Kotatsu-yu’s karabuki-style exterior and lavish decoration directly influenced the dignified appearance of the Yuna-ya.
In the film, the Yuna-ya is portrayed as a prestigious bathhouse where spirits come to rest and recuperate. To express this prestige, Director Miyazaki incorporated elements from traditional bathhouse architecture like Kotatsu-yu.
Model for Kamaji’s Boiler Room
Beyond Kotatsu-yu alone, other buildings within the Edo-Tokyo Museum of Architecture also served as inspiration sources for “Spirited Away.” Particularly noteworthy is the building that became the model for Kamaji’s boiler room, where he manages medicinal bath tablets.
The internal structure of Takei Sanshodo, a stationery shop in the East Zone of the park, particularly the arrangement of medicinal drawers, is said to have influenced the design of Kamaji’s room. Visiting Takei Sanshodo allows one to experience what feels like standing directly in a scene from the film.
Atmosphere of the Downtown Shopping Street
The mysterious shopping street scene where Chihiro’s parents turn into pigs—the downtown atmosphere depicted in this scene draws inspiration from the early Showa shopping street recreated in the East Zone of the Edo-Tokyo Museum of Architecture.
Buildings such as Kagiya (a tavern), Hanamichi Fresh Flower Shop, and Maruni Shouten (a hardware store)—shops with distinctive architectural styles called “kanban-zukuri” (signboard-style buildings)—line up to create an atmosphere that feels like the world of the film itself. Visiting during dusk makes you feel even more strongly the atmosphere of the film’s opening scene.
Kotatsu-yu as a Photography Spot
Recommended Photography Angles
Full View from the Front
The standard angle for photographing Kotatsu-yu is a full front view. You can capture both the karabuki roof and the Seven Lucky Gods sculptures in a single photograph. The soft morning light is particularly recommended.
Close-up of the Entrance
To photograph the fine details of the sculptures and decorative tiles, an up-close shot of the entrance is effective. Aim for times when oblique light strikes the sculptures to emphasize their three-dimensionality.
Interior Ori-age Gou Ceiling
Inside the building, the ori-age gou ceiling of the changing room is an excellent photography spot. Using a wide-angle lens allows you to dynamically capture the three-dimensional structure of the ceiling.
Mount Fuji in the Bathroom
The bathroom allows photography, but flash is prohibited. Practice flash-free photography using natural light. When photographing the Mount Fuji painting, shooting from directly in front to capture the entire image works best.
Photography Precautions
At the Edo-Tokyo Museum of Architecture, personal commemorative photography is freely allowed, but use of tripods and commercial photography require prior application. You must also be considerate not to disturb other visitors.
While photography is permitted inside buildings, flash photography is sometimes prohibited from a cultural property protection standpoint. Always check the notices posted at the entrance of each building.
Other Buildings Related to Ghibli in the Park
Takei Sanshodo (Stationery Store)
As mentioned previously, this stationery store is said to have inspired Kamaji’s boiler room design. Built in 1927 (Showa 2), it is a representative example of kanban-zukuri (signboard architecture), characterized by its copper-plated facade.
Inside, small drawers like medicinal drawers are arranged across an entire wall. These drawers became the inspiration for the tablet-managing drawers in Kamaji’s room from the film. Visitors can actually open the drawers and experience how the stationery shop of that time operated.
Kagiya (Tavern)
A tavern founded in 1856 (Ansei 3) that conveys the atmosphere of a sake shop continuing from the Edo period to the present. It is one of the buildings that influenced the image of the mysterious dining district where Chihiro’s parents ate.
The interior displays sake barrels and tableware from that era, offering glimpses into the food and drink culture of common people in the Edo period. The earthen floor and tatami seating areas are preserved in their original state, creating a sensation of time travel.
Maruni Shouten (Hardware Store)
A kanban-zukuri hardware store built in 1923 (Taisho 12). Its decorative facade, covered in copper plating, retains strong characteristics of Tokyo downtown commercial architecture from the post-Great Kanto Earthquake reconstruction period.
The interior displays items such as brooms, baskets, and wooden tubs as they were arranged back then, recreating a store scene from the early Showa period. This building also contributed to creating the atmosphere of the shopping street scene in the film.
Toden 7500 Streetcar
Not a building, but the streetcar displayed in the park is said to be one of the models for the train that appears in “Spirited Away.” A streetcar that actually ran through Tokyo from 1962 to 1985, visitors can enter the car.
The atmosphere of the streetcar Chihiro rides in the film’s final scene likely drew inspiration from this car’s interior. Retro seating, hanging straps, and car advertisements recreate the everyday scenery of Showa Tokyo.
Access and Basic Information
Location and How to Get There
Address
〒184-0005 Koganei City, Sakura-cho 3-7-1, Tokyo (within Koganei Park)
By Train
- JR Chuo Line “Musashi-Koganei Station” North Exit: approximately 25-minute walk or about 5 minutes by bus
- JR Chuo Line “Higashi-Koganei Station” North Exit: approximately 25-minute walk or about 6 minutes by bus
- Seibu Shinjuku Line “Hana-Koganei Station” South Exit: about 5 minutes by bus
By Bus
From Musashi-Koganei Station North Exit platforms 2-3, Seibu Bus to “Koganei Park West Entrance” (5-minute walk), or Kanto Bus to “Edo-Tokyo Museum of Architecture” or “Koganei Park Front” (3-minute walk).
By Car
About 20 minutes from “Chofu IC” on the Chuo Expressway. Koganei Park has a paid parking lot (300 yen per hour for regular cars, 100 yen per additional 30 minutes).
Opening Hours and Closed Days
Opening Hours
- April–September: 9:30–17:30 (entry until 17:00)
- October–March: 9:30–16:30 (entry until 16:00)
Closed Days
- Every Monday (if Monday is a national holiday or replacement holiday, the following day)
- Year-end and New Year period (December 28–January 4)
Special Opening Days
The park may be open on Mondays during Golden Week or Obon period. Please check the official website before your visit.
Admission Fees
Regular Admission
- General: 400 yen
- Age 65 and over: 200 yen
- University students (including junior colleges and vocational schools): 320 yen
- High school and junior high school students (non-Tokyo schools): 200 yen
- Junior high school students (Tokyo residents/students), elementary school students, and preschoolers: free
Group Rate (20 or more people)
- General: 320 yen
- University students: 250 yen
- High school and junior high school students: 160 yen
Annual Passport
- General: 1,600 yen
- Age 65 and over: 800 yen
An annual passport allows unlimited visits for one year, making it recommended for those wishing to enjoy the park across different seasons.
Estimated Time Required
To thoroughly enjoy the Edo-Tokyo Museum of Architecture, at least 2–3 hours are necessary. If you plan to view all buildings in the park and enjoy photography, allow half a day (4–5 hours).
To efficiently visit buildings related to Ghibli, focusing on the East Zone is recommended. This route allows you to visit major buildings in approximately 1.5–2 hours.
Recommended Tips for Your Visit
Best Seasons
The Edo-Tokyo Museum of Architecture offers enjoyable scenery throughout the year, but certain periods are particularly recommended.
Spring (late March–early April)
Koganei Park is known as a cherry blossom viewing spot, with approximately 1,700 cherry trees blooming. The combination of blossoms and historic buildings is ideal for photography.
Autumn (mid-November–early December)
The autumn foliage season brings color to the trees in the park, creating beautiful harmony with the buildings. The combination of colorful leaves and architecture is especially stunning in the West Zone’s Japanese gardens.
Winter (January–February)
This period has relatively few tourists, allowing leisurely building visits. Special New Year events feature traditional decorations and games from that era.
Event Information
Throughout the year, various events are held at the Edo-Tokyo Museum of Architecture.
Downtown Evening Cool-Off Festival (late July–early August)
During this special night opening, normally closed buildings are illuminated for viewing. Many visitors in yukata create an atmosphere of time travel.
Autumn Leaves and Building Illumination (late November)
This autumn night opening features atmospheric lighting of buildings amid colorful foliage. The park’s nighttime appearance differs completely from daytime and appeals to photography enthusiasts.
New Year Scenery (January 2–3)
This event features traditional Edo-Tokyo New Year decorations and games. Visitors can enjoy traditional games such as badminton with decorative feathered shuttlecocks, kite flying, and top spinning.
Guided Tours and Volunteer Explanations
The Edo-Tokyo Museum of Architecture offers free building explanations by volunteer guides (confirmation required in advance). Listening to explanations from knowledgeable guides deepens understanding of the buildings’ history and architectural techniques.
Additionally, special guided tours by museum curators are periodically held, where you can access normally restricted areas and learn detailed architectural methods.
Nearby Tourist Attractions
Koganei Park
Koganei Park, where the Edo-Tokyo Museum of Architecture is located, is a vast metropolitan park spanning approximately 80 hectares. The park features areas known as “Sakura no Niwa” (Cherry Blossom Garden), large playground equipment for children, cycling courses, and tennis courts—providing full-day enjoyment.
Bringing a picnic lunch to enjoy is recommended. Particularly during spring cherry blossom season, the park attracts many flower-viewing visitors.
Musashino no Mori Park
Located about 15 minutes by car from the Edo-Tokyo Museum of Architecture, this metropolitan park features a vast lawn area with an observation hill where you can view nearby airplane takeoffs and landings.
Jindaiji Temple
An ancient temple in Chofu City, approximately 20 minutes by car from the Edo-Tokyo Museum of Architecture. The traditional gateside town is famous for Jindaiji soba (buckwheat noodles), with many soba restaurants where you can enjoy meals.
Mitaka Forest Ghibli Museum
Studio Ghibli fans should also visit the Mitaka Forest Ghibli Museum, approximately 30 minutes by train from the Edo-Tokyo Museum of Architecture, where you can fully enjoy the world of Studio Ghibli. However, entry is by advance reservation only, requiring prior ticket purchase.
Tips for Maximizing Your Enjoyment of Kotatsu-yu
Prior Preparation
Watching “Spirited Away” again before your visit enhances enjoyment. Paying close attention to scenes showing the Yuna-ya exterior and Kamaji’s room creates interesting contrasts with the actual buildings.
Also, reviewing detailed history and architectural style information about Kotatsu-yu from the Edo-Tokyo Museum of Architecture’s official website deepens understanding during your visit.
Viewing Tips
Since Kotatsu-yu is a popular spot, weekends and holidays get crowded. For leisurely viewing, weekday mornings are recommended. The time immediately after opening is especially uncrowded and provides easier photography opportunities.
Inside the building, visitors must remove shoes and wear provided slippers. Wearing easy-to-remove shoes is convenient. Also, buildings lack air conditioning, so dress appropriately for the season.
Best Timing for Photography
The building’s exterior photographs best between 10:00 and 11:00 a.m. with direct sunlight. At this time, the entire building receives even lighting, with the karabuki’s three-dimensionality and sculpture details clearly visible.
For interior photography, utilizing natural light is fundamental. The ori-age gou ceiling particularly benefits from light filtering through skylights, creating beautiful shadows. Raise ISO sensitivity and be careful of camera shake.
Conclusion: Experiencing the World of Spirited Away
The Kotatsu-yu bathhouse at the Edo-Tokyo Museum of Architecture is not merely a tourist attraction. It is a precious cultural heritage conveying the history of Japanese bathhouse culture while simultaneously serving as an inspiration source for the beloved Ghibli film enjoyed worldwide.
When you actually enter the building, gaze up at the karabuki roof, marvel at the beauty of the ori-age gou ceiling, and stand before the Mount Fuji painting, you experience more than visiting a film’s setting—you touch memories of disappearing Showa-era Tokyo.
One reason “Spirited Away” is beloved worldwide lies in the Japanese traditional culture and architectural beauty depicted in its background. Visiting Kotatsu-yu allows understanding of how the film’s world view was born from actual culture.
The Edo-Tokyo Museum of Architecture appeals to diverse visitors: Ghibli fans, those interested in Japanese architecture and history, photography enthusiasts, and families. When visiting Tokyo, please visit this location. The entrance to the mysterious world where Chihiro wandered awaits you in the greenery of Koganei Park.
